Starting a stored Regal

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mark the position of the cap and mark where the rotor is pointing before you take out the distributor install it pointing the same spot and you won't have any problems.
 
Rob85 said:
454cutlass said:
Wouldn't hurt to prime the oil system. If you buy the tool it just drops in like the distributor making sure the end is lined up with the oil pump. Most use a 1/2" drill to turn it. I use a old distributor with the cam worm gear removed. works just like the tool. Just remember you will have to re time it afterwards. Pic of my primer

Great idea, is the timing a pain in the a××. I recently tried to replace the timing belt to my wifes camry, ended up having it done at a local shop. I had the hanes manual and still didnt have it right.


It looks as if I can simlpy replicate your tool by machining a flat end to a piece of round stock. Can you give me the dimensions, O.D. , width of the flat end, and length......I haven't been to my car, its at my fathers and plan to turn it over this weekend. With your demensions, I could avoid going to the local pick a part.
 
I can't deny spinning up the oil pump drive is a good idea, but if the engine ran ok before it was laid up you could simply take out the plugs (shoot some WD40 or Seafoam or your favourite upper cylinder lubricant into cylinders while you're at it), and spin the engine up on the starter. Pre fill the oil filter before you install it, the oil pump will have to fill the filter first otherwise, and turn the engine until the oil light goes out or some pressure shows on the gauge if you have one. The mechanical action of the cam and lifters will push oil round the engine much faster than simply spinning the pump. Don't spin the starter for more than 15-20 seconds, it's not designed for continuous use, and you will need a good battery.
Check out the hoses too, nothing like lack of use to help them deteriorate.

If your 200R4 is in a bad way I would get it overhauled by a good reputable shop rather than swap in a th350, if the driveline is properly set up for it the differential gear will be to low for highway use.

Roger.
 
Thanks for everyone's help, I appreciate the advise. I was able to start the car and drive it home. I didnt change any oils, but did add to transmission and engine to top off. New battery from auto zome , duralast gold 3yr for $30.00 . I like that point system which earns you credit on purchases.
 
Now you've got it home I think it would be a good idea to change the oil and filter anyway, and have a good look at everything else. In particular, a good look at the tires for signs of cracking or ageing might save you some distress in the future.

Roger.
 
Siphon as much gas out of the tank as you can manage. Harbor Freight makes a rubber bulb kit that has worked well in the past for me. Once you get the air out, you may not even have to pump it anymore. There may be a baffle in there, so it may take some effort to get the hose down into the tank. Another option is to disconnect the fuel hose at frame rail near the fuel pump and using the same siphon pump with a hose clamp to keep air from bleeding in, suck the old fuel into some jerry cans (add an in-line filter if you want). Put in about five gallons of new gas and suck a bit more out to flush the lines. Unless you have a place that will take old fuel, pour the old gas through a filter and run in your other car/truck, diluting with fresh gas. If you can, try to inspect the rubber fuel lines with a flashlight and make sure nothing is falling apart after all these years. At some point, I'd also drop the tank and inspect the sender. The filter socks rot away after a while, and the gauge senders also get worn. The Chinese are making reproductions cheap now (RockAuto).

Another option for your oil system is to disconnect the coil wire after changing the oil, and crank the motor a while to distribute the oil and pump up the lifters. Go no more than 30 seconds with a 30-second rest so you don't overheat your geriatric as-found starter. Once the gauge or light indicates you have oil pressure, plug back in a try it.
 
Everyone has their preference but I would prime the engine oil pump with a drill before cranking the engine on the starter.. i was able with my drill to pump it at about 70psi... this will ensure that oil is everywhere it should be before cranking a dry motor... just my 2 cents..

Give me a few moments and I will post the oil pump prime tool I made.. was like $4 bucks at home depot..
 
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