Starting After Long Term Storage
- Thread starter 87_TX_T-type
- Start date
- Status
Quick question...
Looks like I can turn the engine over by hand by using the alternator nut turning it clockwise... just want to clarify that "clockwise" is with me facing the front of the vehicle - hence pulling my wrench/breakover from the passenger side to driver side of the vehicle. Correct?
Aside from that everything appears to look good. Pulled the plugs without issue, and they looked clean. Put a couple ounces of ATF in each cylinder that I will let leak down around the rings overnight before turning the engine over by hand.
Found a few vacuum hoses that were toast, so those will be replaced along with the fluids before doing a compression test.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Found a video of '87 GN with the engine running, and the direction of the belt looks to be going "clockwise" as I imagined.
Looks like I can turn the engine over by hand by using the alternator nut turning it clockwise... just want to clarify that "clockwise" is with me facing the front of the vehicle - hence pulling my wrench/breakover from the passenger side to driver side of the vehicle. Correct?
Aside from that everything appears to look good. Pulled the plugs without issue, and they looked clean. Put a couple ounces of ATF in each cylinder that I will let leak down around the rings overnight before turning the engine over by hand.
Found a few vacuum hoses that were toast, so those will be replaced along with the fluids before doing a compression test.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Found a video of '87 GN with the engine running, and the direction of the belt looks to be going "clockwise" as I imagined.
Last edited:
cool beans man. good luck. Before starting take the turbo off and blow it out and inspect the impeller for cracking or missing peices.
Any specific tricks to removing the turbo? I can't seem to find anything on the forum search. Looks pretty straight forward? As far as "blowing out", just used compressed air? Thanks.
All it is is bolts and an oil line and some vacuum lines. Keep track of where everything goes.
Managed to get a few more things done... "drenched" the engine in 20 liters of oil to make sure even those hard to reach places get a good coat before starting... and also did a quick inspection of the turbo inlet.
Looks clean, spins freely, no noise, and zero play in the shaft.
Now I just need to tackle a few small issues.
First it looks like there is a vacuum hose missing off this sensor sitting on the passenger side valve cover. (Circled in red.) If it is missing, I can't seem to find what the other end would connect to.
There are also a few electrical oddities. My dad left a number or heavily notated technical manuals and diagrams, so I presume there is a serious purpose (not wiring a new stereo) for all of them. My guess is that they are small mods for either power or security kill-switches.
There is this resistor in a plug under the driver's side dash. No clue about this.
There is also the orange ECM/KAM wire that goes from the positive terminal, through the driver's side firewall, then back into the engine bay, and regroups with the wiring harness behind the accumulator. I'm guessing this is a part of a kill-switch since it looks a bit out of place over that run... but I can't find the switch - so maybe it is stock.
And last there is an added switch on the steering column, but it looks like it connects to the sensor/switch on the accumulator. Maybe this was a quick cutoff for the A/C system, but that seems a bit odd. Can anyone confirm the color of these wires on their vehicle?
Looks clean, spins freely, no noise, and zero play in the shaft.
Now I just need to tackle a few small issues.
First it looks like there is a vacuum hose missing off this sensor sitting on the passenger side valve cover. (Circled in red.) If it is missing, I can't seem to find what the other end would connect to.
There are also a few electrical oddities. My dad left a number or heavily notated technical manuals and diagrams, so I presume there is a serious purpose (not wiring a new stereo) for all of them. My guess is that they are small mods for either power or security kill-switches.
There is this resistor in a plug under the driver's side dash. No clue about this.
There is also the orange ECM/KAM wire that goes from the positive terminal, through the driver's side firewall, then back into the engine bay, and regroups with the wiring harness behind the accumulator. I'm guessing this is a part of a kill-switch since it looks a bit out of place over that run... but I can't find the switch - so maybe it is stock.
And last there is an added switch on the steering column, but it looks like it connects to the sensor/switch on the accumulator. Maybe this was a quick cutoff for the A/C system, but that seems a bit odd. Can anyone confirm the color of these wires on their vehicle?
Nice car, the interior looks mint! looks like your dad took really good care of it. turbo looks nice, a rebuild kit is like 100 bucks if you wanted to do it. disconnect the metal line at the turbo with ecm disconnected when you're ready to crank it over to verify there's oil. GNTtype website explains how to prime pump if you don't have oil. that second pic is the waste gate solenoid. there's a small filter that goes on the nipple. the ecm controls your boost with this solenoid. the orange wire is stock. not sure about the resistor. The two wires on my car are blue and green.
Also, the first mod is get rid of that pos powermaster brake booster, and put a normal vacuum booster on it before your brakes fail like mine, and many others have. This was the first mod I did on my car. Kirban performance has a kit with everything you need for 400 bucks. You can do it cheaper if you can get some used stuff off the forum. Easy to put it back on if you decide to restore someday, but if your going to drive it, upgrade to vacuum. Super easy to do, I can get you some pics if you like.
Also, the first mod is get rid of that pos powermaster brake booster, and put a normal vacuum booster on it before your brakes fail like mine, and many others have. This was the first mod I did on my car. Kirban performance has a kit with everything you need for 400 bucks. You can do it cheaper if you can get some used stuff off the forum. Easy to put it back on if you decide to restore someday, but if your going to drive it, upgrade to vacuum. Super easy to do, I can get you some pics if you like.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
