Still Having Brake Issues

[TexasT]

couple more questions.
You say pedal firm with it clamped, and now not firm. Is it still clamped or got "not firm" after the clamp removed?
Not sure where you are with the proportioning valve. Have you clamped it so the "reset" is in during the bleed?
When you are doing to manual bleed with the helper, are you using a clear tube and receptacle so you can see the bubbles? Are you getting the bleeder tight before the pedal is let up? Are you sure the "helper" understands to keep the pedal stationary while you are tightening the bleeder before they let the pedal come up? I like to put a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood under the pedal to keep my "helper" from over stroking the mc. Also helps with the press and hold part while you are under there operating the bleeder and catch part.

I'm just tryin' to help. Trust me, I've spent a "few" hours under a car and leaned over a fender, too.

 

[Clarmo]

Ive had multiple phone conversations with Malibu Dave. At this point hes stumped too.
As far as the parking brake, the cables not hooked up yet.
Taking out the bar might be an issue. Its a Ford drum setup. Not sure how I could get the right adjustment without the bar being there. Wouldnt removing it make the top go in too far ?

The bar is strictly for the parking brake. The shoes MUST be at rest on the Anchor at the top. Does it look like this???

 

[Clarmo]

are all the bleeders at the top of the caliper or wheel cylinder?

Seen this lots over the years.

 

[mikester]

Both sides look the same. Im thinking its done right. Do you see anything that doesnt look correct ? Let me know.

 

[Clarmo]

Looks good to me.

 

[Clarmo]

If your pedal is good when you pinch the flex hoses...when does it gets worse??? When you release the front or the back?

 

[mikester]

couple more questions.
You say pedal firm with it clamped, and now not firm. Is it still clamped or got "not firm" after the clamp removed?
Not sure where you are with the proportioning valve. Have you clamped it so the "reset" is in during the bleed?
When you are doing to manual bleed with the helper, are you using a clear tube and receptacle so you can see the bubbles? Are you getting the bleeder tight before the pedal is let up? Are you sure the "helper" understands to keep the pedal stationary while you are tightening the bleeder before they let the pedal come up? I like to put a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood under the pedal to keep my "helper" from over stroking the mc. Also helps with the press and hold part while you are under there operating the bleeder and catch part.

I'm just tryin' to help. Trust me, I've spent a "few" hours under a car and leaned over a fender, too.

Pedal was hard as a rock with the lines clamped front and rear. I took the front clamps off and the pedal was soft. Put the clamps back on the front and remover the rear. Pedal was soft. Not much change.
Have used 3/16" clear tubing with both types of bleeding. Its tight on the bleeding screws.
As far as manual bleeding it this second time I havent done that. I used the air bleeder this time. One reason, I figured it cuts the chance of someone pushing the pedal down to the floor and damaging the cups inside the master. Thats what I assume happened to the master the first time. Why else would I keep getting the bubbles in the reservoir of a brand new master when I tried to bench bleed it ?
As far as the proportioning valve, I had it out. Made sure the rod inside was centered, installed the plastic tool/plug to keep it centered when I was bleeding the system. I removed it midway through this last time because I thought maybe air was getting past the plastic threads. Didnt make a difference with the switch put back in.
See how this can be very frustrating ??? LOL
Im starting to know these parts better than I know my kids.

 

[Clarmo]

If you clamp the hoses and it's rock hard I don't think you have an air issue. Something is moving too much...Shoes the right size for the drums, Caliper Pistons retracting back into the bore too much when the pedal is released or Flex Hoses are ballooning...
Good quallity aftermarket parts ( especially stock replacement stuff ) has always been our biggest frustration at our shop. We always install Top line, Best parts we can buy right down to the oil filters (most are absolute junk!) And we STILL have problems.

It's frustrating when you get a Gremlin like these things!!!

What small town in NY?
I'm going racing at Numidia Dragway in PA in a couple weeks. I'll stop in if you have some cold pints.

 

[mikester]

If you clamp the hoses and it's rock hard I don't think you have an air issue. Something is moving too much...Shoes the right size for the drums, Caliper Pistons retracting back into the bore too much when the pedal is released or Flex Hoses are ballooning...
Good quallity aftermarket parts ( especially stock replacement stuff ) has always been our biggest frustration at our shop. We always install Top line, Best parts we can buy right down to the oil filters (most are absolute junk!) And we STILL have problems.

It's frustrating when you get a Gremlin like these things!!!

What small town in NY?
I'm going racing at Numidia Dragway in PA in a couple weeks. I'll stop in if you have some cold pints.

I called Inline Tube and spoke to one of their tech guys. He thinks the low pedal is from the booster. At this point Im just going to buy another one. Whats another $75 ? lol
As far as quality parts, I try to get Delco or Raybestos when it comes to brake stuff. I dont like buying from the chain parts stores.
As far as a visit, Im way out towards the east end of Long Island.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Why not Install a 10 lb residual pressure valve in your rear brake line (as close to the master cylinder as possible) it will reduce the amount of brake pedal travel to engage the rear brake shoes, keeps the pistons in the rear brake cylinders less retracted, hence earlier engagement. (A 2 lb residual valve if it's rear discs).