Stock 307 HP ...

[StreetDogg316]

I think you'd be really suprised as to just how 'streetable' a 400+, 500+, or even 600+ hp car is...

+1. Look at Corvette's, They make good HP and are still good on the street's. Heck, I know of a guy who drive's a Viper almost everyday to work and back. It's all in how you do it and have it set-up, If you don't have it tuned right, And have the right suspension set-up, Tires Etc., Than it will drive like crap. But if you do it right, You could be driving a 800HP+ car, And it will feel like you are driving a completely stock car(untill you stomp on the gas ).

 

[jae]

Like I said eventual plan is a 350, but how about something like a procharger on the 307? Stock heads could handle like 8-9 psi boost right?

I don't think so. As many have said on hear, if you're going the Chevy 350 route (or even Olds 350) you will best be served just stacking cash for the swap, especially if going to a Chevy 350.

In terms of the 307, if you're going to dig into it to get power out of it, the best heads are the 5A. You can also replace the cam with the cam used on the "9" motor - these were in the '80s H/O / 442s up to '85. This cam is a non-roller and has a little more lift. Basically you want to turn your "Y" motor into a "9" motor, but these were still rated at 180hp. You can replace the intake with an Edelbrock, that may help. And as everyone else stated, open the exhaust with the headers. Not sure if an MSD or Accel CD box would help. If I'm giving bad / incorrect info please correct me.

I'd just ride the 307 until the swap motor is ready then sell the 307 to someone - I'm sure somebody would take it off your hands for a cruiser they may be building up.

 

[STL84Calais]

Well, I finally found something to tide my speed-needs over for a while. 7.5 rear from a monte carlo, rebuilt with 3.42:1 gears and posi, 0 miles for cheap. I'm going for it!

John

 

[Blake442]

Good move, gears make for a huge improvement.

 

[Oldstech]

With a cam and every bolt-on you can name (except nos and forced induction)... On a chassic dyno my 307 made 166 hp and 218 ft lbs. So at the crank that is roughly 215hp and 310ft lbs. So good 65hp over stock. If you need more proof I can post it. I already have a link on another forum. Without head work or getting the compression up your wasting your time. I found out the hard way

 

[Oldstech]

This was pasted from another forum!!!

My dyno results
Well, at 5:00pm the CamarOlds with a 307 was put on the dyno. For 3 runs.
I have to say I was disappointed but not really surprise. I will post pics and dynosheet tonight

My dyno sheet doesn't quote my max hp/torque at what rpm. You have to look at the graph. Max hp on every run was around 4600rpm and max torque was around 3200rpm. He rev till 5,000rpm but the power was dropping off after 4600rpm anyways.

Run 1 Max Power= 163.69 Max Torque= 215.75
Run 2 Max Power= 166.00 Max Torque= 217.19
Run 3 Max Power= 165.65 Max Torque= 218.08

Run Conditions: 66.05 F, 29.50in-hg, Humidity 6%, SAE: 0.98

It a 1984 Olds 307 with 5A heads
I overhaul it around 5 or 6 years ago I might have 5,000 miles since then
The cranks was turned with clevite 77 bearings
Honed and reringed with speed pro rings
New cam bearings and a Comp Cam 268H installed
The heads were recondition
And whateva is usually with a typical rebuild

External
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
K&N Airfilter
Holley 670cfm Street Avenger, yellow spring on the vacuum sec
Accel Blueprint dist with MSD guts and Cap with light springs
Msd 6AL box with complete HEI Kit and blaster 2 coil
Msd 8.5mm wires and NGK plugs gapped to .040
Hedman Headers, 2.5 piping, X-pipe, and 2 dynomax Super Turbos mufflers
No A/c, No Smog Pump, No Emission
Electric Fan and Electric Fuel Pump pressure set to 6psi
Non A/c water pump