BUILD THREAD Street/Strip Cutlass Build: Race it, break it, fix it, repeat.

[64nailhead]

Yeah I bought my rear double adjustable shocks from trick Chassis in Wisconsin. They were under $400 when I bought them a few years ago but I assume the price went up.

$150 for a set of comp eng rears seem tempting but they are a pain to adjust from street to track.

In my opinion the $150 cheap set are probably fine for a track only bracket car sure but adjustable are so much better. If you have wheel hop issues go for doubles but if you are at the power level where you don't need them I'd hold off.

Nitrous! He’ll be at wheel hop power level with the release of a button.

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

I hadn’t really considered changing anything yet because it (traction) hadn’t been an issue, but I wasn’t expecting that to stay the same on the bottle. It seems like I just saw guys change springs, adjustable arms, with close to the same or a tiny bit more power and still wheelhop or go 1.9 short times. It is looks goofy, but I have a 28” tire in the front, so the car kinda has a little rearward rake, which might help with the weight transfer a little bit. The car has always seemed to squat and go, and does best by flashing the converter at 1400rpm.

Thanks for the input guys, it seems like the Viking double adjustables are still pretty affordable at $230 a corner. Another thing to learn!

 

[64nailhead]

Something to keep in mind - your House port is progressive Nitrous controller. So you can dial in the nitrous to wherever you want it.

And you don’t need to use the ICF for nitrous. You can program it to work off from an individual output. You just have to be careful of the amount of fuel you add (or lack haha).