BUILD THREAD Street/Strip Cutlass Build: Race it, break it, fix it, repeat.

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Wow......
What an awesome thread. The fact you started this thread 9 years ago, and are still going faster and faster......with the same car.....
Is just cool on an epic scale. I love what you've done so far, and great updates.
 
Looking good man ! now you have to make a "After" pass !
 
I like it.

You're only a couple of parts away from 10's. A solenoid, dry plate, line, etc. Should be less than $500 to throw a 100-300 shot on top of what you have. The Holley and your pump should easily support a dry shot in that range.

Looks great and let's see some results.

Have you started/drove it yet?
 
Wow......
What an awesome thread. The fact you started this thread 9 years ago, and are still going faster and faster......with the same car.....
Is just cool on an epic scale. I love what you've done so far, and great updates.

Thanks! Phew, 9 years already? Man I'm getting old. I'll never get rid of this car.
Looking good man ! now you have to make a "After" pass !
This winter hopefully! We have that luxury in the south where we can make a lap or two in December/January. So far I think this system will humble me into what a terrible carb tuner I am.
I like it.

You're only a couple of parts away from 10's. A solenoid, dry plate, line, etc. Should be less than $500 to throw a 100-300 shot on top of what you have. The Holley and your pump should easily support a dry shot in that range.

Looks great and let's see some results.

Have you started/drove it yet?
100 shot was the plan to start.

I drove it around 30 miles so far. I'll drive it to work tomorrow. Tonights project was to figure out why when the car sees around 2500 RPM sustained for a few seconds it seems to hang up there and not return to idle, despite having 0% TPS. I smoothed out the idle table, and that seemed to help with the harsh transitions between "cruise" timing and "idle" timing. But what really seemed to make a difference (no load just messing around in my driveway) was adjusting some IAC parameters. I'll see if it has improved (or maybe I made it worse) tomorrow.

I'm trying to pace myself here. I find that I can quickly go down the rabbit hole on the pages and pages of different tables and settings. I think if I tackle one problem at a time and really understand it, maybe I'll be worth something when it comes to EFI. But right now I'm definitely a button pusher.
 
Thanks! Phew, 9 years already? Man I'm getting old. I'll never get rid of this car.

This winter hopefully! We have that luxury in the south where we can make a lap or two in December/January. So far I think this system will humble me into what a terrible carb tuner I am.

100 shot was the plan to start.

I drove it around 30 miles so far. I'll drive it to work tomorrow. Tonights project was to figure out why when the car sees around 2500 RPM sustained for a few seconds it seems to hang up there and not return to idle, despite having 0% TPS. I smoothed out the idle table, and that seemed to help with the harsh transitions between "cruise" timing and "idle" timing. But what really seemed to make a difference (no load just messing around in my driveway) was adjusting some IAC parameters. I'll see if it has improved (or maybe I made it worse) tomorrow.

I'm trying to pace myself here. I find that I can quickly go down the rabbit hole on the pages and pages of different tables and settings. I think if I tackle one problem at a time and really understand it, maybe I'll be worth something when it comes to EFI. But right now I'm definitely a button pusher.
nice build. what size tires are you running and any rubbing on the inside of the tire and frame.
 
nice build. what size tires are you running and any rubbing on the inside of the tire and frame.
My street wheels and tires are:

Front- 15x7”, 3.5” backspacing. 205/70-15 (I also have run 235/60/15)

Rear- 15x7 3.5” backspacing. 275/60/15. If you put a few people in the back it will rub, otherwise no.
 
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So.... I caught on to this thread just as a result of the most recent updates. Today, I felt the need to start from the beginning to understand some history on the journey. Pretty dang good read.

I didn't see it mentioned.... I know it was supposed to be a 383 & wasn't. The changes/upgrades earlier seemed to work well for the combo but I never saw exactly what cam profile that was utilized? It sounds pretty decent in the clips where you were knocking @ 12's door.

I'll be watching as you continue to update w/the newest EFI combo. Well done!
 
My street wheels and tires are:

Front- 15x7”, 3.5” backspacing. 205/70-15 (I also have run 235/60/15)

Rear- 15x7 3.5” backspacing. 275/60/15. If you put a few people in the back it will rub, otherwise no.
I notice you are using kyb rear shock , I'm in the process of making changes to my suspension, just wondering with the tire setup you're running are you using stock front and rear spring .
 
So.... I caught on to this thread just as a result of the most recent updates. Today, I felt the need to start from the beginning to understand some history on the journey. Pretty dang good read.

I didn't see it mentioned.... I know it was supposed to be a 383 & wasn't. The changes/upgrades earlier seemed to work well for the combo but I never saw exactly what cam profile that was utilized? It sounds pretty decent in the clips where you were knocking @ 12's door.

I'll be watching as you continue to update w/the newest EFI combo. Well done!
Thanks for reading. The cam is a Comp Cams "Thumpr" Hydraulic roller. Here is the profile:

Duration at 050 inch Lift:
227 int./241 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
283 int./303 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.513 int./0.498 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
107
 
I notice you are using kyb rear shock , I'm in the process of making changes to my suspension, just wondering with the tire setup you're running are you using stock front and rear spring .
Sure. The front springs are stock that I cut about a 1/2 coil out of. It brought the front down about 1/4". The front shocks are old (I probably need to replace them), I think just parts store brand stock replacements. The rear springs are stock, with KYB Gas-a-just shocks.
 
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