BUILD THREAD Sweet Johnny & Gina: A Love "Two Large" To Fail

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Thanks for the detailed explanation, that's very helpful and informative. I didn't feel as if I had a choice since that tube was literally falling out of the intake and creating more problems if touched. It leaked air all around the tube even if I didn't, and I'd considered an o-ring but felt this was a better seal. I mean to tell you it was loose. I didn't block anything, and it's only good to 250°, which is another reason I chose it- I figure I can remove it with very minor persuasion if necessary. I even have another identical intake on the shelf if it comes to that.

It's true that I might have rushed the process and chose a solution that was less than ideal, but I believe I left myself an exit strategy should I require one. I humbly throw myself at the feet of the Resto-Gods and beg forgiveness.
 
It's your car, your adventure. I just hate to see someone put themselves in a pickle where the stuff won't come back apart if/when needed. That sorta sucks. If it's all mucked up, gotta do what you gotta do, but it should be a snug fit on the tapers, but not jam up and jelly tight.
 
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It's your car, your adventure. I just hate to see someone put themselves in a pickle where the stuff won't come back apart if/when needed. That sorta sucks. If it's all mucked up, gotta do what you gotta do, but it should be a snug fit on the tapers, but not jam up and jelly tight.
I believe that if I should encounter any problems I can cut the metal line and slide a hose on to make disassembly easier. Perhaps I could even add a junction with flare fittings, I doubt I will but it's an idea. At least now I know more about that system and how it operates, as well as how the tube should fit. Next time I'll try to save the JB Weld until I've exhausted all of my other options, and I'm hopeful that this quick fix will not only last but can be easily removed as well.
 
On the heat tube, most likely if you pull the two bolts and remove, you will see the tube rusted through or perforated and parts of the tube about paper thin. There are several on internet stated this is exhaust gas going in and certainly not true. Everything is fresh filtered air picked up at back of carb, then flows into the well to be heated and into and though the choke housing.

Basically the carb picks up cold ambient air heats it and uses it to heat the choke spring and then just releases it to the intake manifold for inflow and it is mixed with fuel and burned. (Great run on sentence there).

I looked to see if replacement tubes available, didn't have much luck. The flow is designed as such that it should not be altering the idle RPM at all. The carb is actually calibrated for it from the factory. I've dealt with this system all through my early career, as being from Chicago area with very cold winters. Being "Cold Natured" or "Hard Starting" was a common complaint.

When the electric choke systems came on board this helped, but being in a cold environment is just part of daily reality. I can remember super cold days I had to heat the carb with a hair dryer before the Firebird 301 V8 would even think of starting.

The best to do would be just install the electric conversion, it's about $20. You plug the hole with small machine screw, I'm thinking 10-32 thread, but been awhile. All the tubing can be just tossed.
 
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It would be rare to disagree with 78Delta88 . But on the heat stove in the intake manifold, if the U-tube is broken/rusted through, it most certainly will pull exhaust gases into the choke housing from those holes/break points in the U-tube from the exhaust crossover. Choke doesn't care where it gets its air supply. It keeps out exhaust if there are no holes/breaks in the U-tube inside the intake manifold. It'll still warm up the choke housing if it does break inside, but now you have a baby EGR system that's on all the time. Probably not enough to choke the engine down, but still could be a minor issue nonetheless.

The U-tube stove is not being reproduced that I can find. GM p/n 343769.
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Square gasket is GM p/n 343663 if you need one separately. Felpro has them p/n 72587 or Mahle p/n B45787


Hot tube is reproduced. GM p/n 355918

Silicone connector hose (don't use regular rubber on the hot side) for pipe to choke housing is GM p/n 12337939.
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Tube to back of the carb - used, and not sure if they still have this one, but appears in good shape. GM p/n 14006748.

Or you can get a new one...not cheap
 
The tube I "welded" in place is the one that runs to the rear of the carb, near the top. It's easy to get on and off the carb. My choke doesn't work anyway, and I'm not sure why. When I took the top off one of the long screws was missing its washer, and I don't think things are 100% correct, so I believe someone was in here before. It drives just fine but has less power than even a 305 should, and I'm sure the old Quad needs completely rebuilt.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I was referencing some comments I saw about the tube hooked to exhaust which it isn't. But you are correct if the tube is broken below the plate it can suck exhaust gas, which defacto is a mini EGR like you stated.

What's terrible is from my emissions class eons ago I was always told it wasn't live well into the crossover, which obviously it is. I know I replaced many of them as diagnosing a non working choke or during a rebuild I always pulled them and just a basic R&R at that point.

It makes sense though I pulled out many that were crudded up severely and especially on any car that burned oil bad. It wasn't something I got deep in the weeds on, bad ones got replaced. After 80/81 most were electric and dealt with them.

Prior to the hot tube method, carbs for the most part had the coil springs mounted to the manifold directly. These used direct heat (conduction) and those were the "divorced choke" units. Usually they were extremely rusty and would bind. So likewise they just got replaced.
 
In addition to getting things running right I also continued exploring and playing detective, which is one of my favorite parts of purchasing a vehicle. I was astounded when I opened the trunk and saw numerous parts- obviously the originals that had fallen off, and a few other items you just don't see every day. I also noticed a large amount of seeds as well as some string and paper that clearly came from a large bag of some sort. "Oh great" I thought. "Mice have been all over this thing. This is gonna be bad."

I've never been happier to be completely wrong. Have a look for yourself.

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The underside of the lid looks much better than the outside (for now), however there are bits of rust rolling around in there and even falling out.

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Not only was the factory spare tire present, it was accompanied by the original bumper jack, tire iron, fasteners, and cardboard? panel. The jumper cables came with the car but of course are not a factory item.

The next photo was taken after I quickly arranged the items that I found, though they weren't exactly scattered to begin with. Most of them were wrapped in paper and stowed on the driver's side, by the marker light.IMG_20231026_170839345.jpg
You can see an old heater core, new V-belts, a new headlight, some center caps, rope, etc. but let's have a closer look. What is the red thing, a funnel?

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Here you see the lower trim for the passenger front fender, a window crank, Cutlass/Brougham insignia, a few center caps, and some plastic pieces that have broken off.

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The silver piece that's folded up here is not a tarp, it's a "cold bag" for stowing groceries on the drive home. On top are wool washing/polishing cloths and a chamois.

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Now this really impressed me: I've never seen anyone outside of my family that went to the effort of making their own wheel chocks from 4x4 lumber and covering it with latex paint. At least not in the last 20 years.. My grandmother drove around with a pair in the trunk of her '88 Olds Ninety-Eight that looked exactly like this. And I mean exactly.

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And now I knew what this thing was, and where all the darn seeds in the trunk came from! This handy little device has a thumb lever that operates an iris in the handle, allowing you to dispense birdseed at your discretion. The lovely lady that owned this car before me must've enjoyed feeding the birds on a regular basis, and I just get a kick out of the idea.

When you add together the overall condition of the car, the clearly well-maintained powertrain, and this mini shrine you get a good understanding of how much this Cutlass meant to the woman that took care of it for 39 years before I came along. This was obviously much more than just a car, a mere conveyance from "A" to "B"- she adored this beautiful cruiser. I can honestly say that it means just as much to me and that I plan to respect this Cutlass as if it were that sweet lady, or even my own grandmother. Life hasn't dropped too many nice things in my lap, but this time capsule is definitely something to be cherished.
 
you get a good understanding of how much this Cutlass meant to the woman that took care of it for 39 years before I came along.
Apparently someone didn't. Looks rough as a cob at the moment, although fairly complete. It does have promise, albeit a lot of work ahead.

They do make aftermarket replacement Cutlass Supreme and "Brougham" emblems for the sail panels once you get to that point of paint, etc. Rockets for the front fenders too. A tad pricey for the set, but restoration game ain't cheap. Unless you can get yours cleaned up and pretty again.


Rockets:
 
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