Ok- so I posted on another existing thread in the tech pages, but I'll try here. 85 MC SS-- First is the factory temp guage- after much frustration, mis-diagnostics, and money out of my pocket while breaking in my brand new engine, I find out that the temp guage is completely off. I replaced the sending unit when I put in the new engine, and I checked the connection multiple times- it's still off and I'm stumped. The second issue is the tach- it was working fine after the swap, but now all of a sudden, it sticks sometimes and it doesn't seem to match actual rpm. Of course I'm purely going off of sound on the "matching" part- but I know how it sounds- its had the same engine and exhaust since I got it :wink: I've also checked and re-checked the connection on this also. I've read elsewhere in the forum on other g's (cutlass I think it was) there is a connection that sometimes comes loose over time on the back of the tach. Is this the same as the MCSS? Or is there some common connection on the back of the cluster that is to blame for both of these issues? I don't want to put in aftermarket guages- trying to keep the stock look. HELP!!!! :|
Tach and temp guage malfunction
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Ok, i know the factory tach's in our cars have this "noise eliminator" thing on the firewall, it looks like a condenser from an old style points and condenser dist. Try checking that, after that remove the actual gauges, it's not that hard trust me, and check everything, make sure the mechanical part isn't simply sticking.
I couldn't ever get the factory tach in my Monte (88 SS) to work, so i had to buy one of those ****ing fisher price "super tachs" for 50$ :|, i assumed because it was cheap that it was small. I was suprised when the box came in the mail, and it has a 6" ****ing face plate. Point of my story, i did what i had to do because i too needed a tach to finish breaking in/ tuning my new engine. As for the temp gauge, mine works. Good luck man.
I couldn't ever get the factory tach in my Monte (88 SS) to work, so i had to buy one of those ****ing fisher price "super tachs" for 50$ :|, i assumed because it was cheap that it was small. I was suprised when the box came in the mail, and it has a 6" ****ing face plate. Point of my story, i did what i had to do because i too needed a tach to finish breaking in/ tuning my new engine. As for the temp gauge, mine works. Good luck man.
I am having similar problems. Everything worked great until I finished my project. Then... my Tach, Voltometer, Oil pressure, gas all stopped working.
I took apart my dash and basically discovered that the plastic printed circuit board had developed cracks, peeled, corroded, etc over the summer. 30 years was its limit.
If your senders are correct, and the wires are ok, you basically know the problem is in the CLuster. Try jumping the connections, or getting you a solering iron and going to town on all the connections.
I took apart my dash and basically discovered that the plastic printed circuit board had developed cracks, peeled, corroded, etc over the summer. 30 years was its limit.
If your senders are correct, and the wires are ok, you basically know the problem is in the CLuster. Try jumping the connections, or getting you a solering iron and going to town on all the connections.
Thanks for the leads- I'll be tearing into the dash tonight and tomorrow so I'll see what I can find- as for the little condensor thing inline with the tach wire- does anyone know if this is something that I can get from the parts store? Anyone got a part number for this thing?
Don't know the part number, but when mine sent bad, I just took it out and ran a straight wire. It's been working fine for about a year now.
azmalibuwagon said:
yah my Cutlass does not have an inline filter. It is just a wire running from the tach directly to the rally pac
I am assuming you you swapped in a V-8 engine. If the car was a V-6 your tach will be off.
GM made different tachs for V-8's and V-6's
Make sure you reconnected all your ground wires after the swap, a bad ground will throw off your gauges.
If your not sure, ground your block to the firewall and to the chassis in different locations.
A proper ground is always a good thing.
And just keep in mind the factory gauges should really not be trusted in these cars.
They were never accurate from the factory, There just fancy looking Idiot Lights
GM made different tachs for V-8's and V-6's
Make sure you reconnected all your ground wires after the swap, a bad ground will throw off your gauges.
If your not sure, ground your block to the firewall and to the chassis in different locations.
A proper ground is always a good thing.
And just keep in mind the factory gauges should really not be trusted in these cars.
They were never accurate from the factory, There just fancy looking Idiot Lights
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