BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Proposed change. Minor, but substantial in the overall feel. Still 6 lines, but now only 3 converge at the narrowest point.

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New thoughts? Send it??
 
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scoti

Royal Smart Person
Sep 5, 2019
1,958
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Texas
Ok guys, I need some opinions.

Really. Your chance to have a say in how to do something on The Juggernaut.

After 2 days and 3 different cardboard template versions, I finally have one that fits in all the areas and is going to work. I know it looks exactly like the version Mike and I came up with a week ago, but I assure you it’s completely different in almost every aspect.

......The area I need y’alls opinions on is my proposed bead roll lines. Once I have the flat metal piece cut out to the template, the first thing I have to do is roll the beads. The piece won’t fit through the bead roller once the bends are made.

There’s 5 full length lines across the top if you look carefully, and there could possibly be part of a 6th in the top right corner if room allows. You’ll note that they all “kick” over to a different angle. That angle aligns with the existing bead roll lines in the section of floor I’ve already got done.

So what’s the general consensus?

Cool and run with it, or come up with something different?

Thanks everyone.

D.
Nix that 6th line for sure as it's too close to the edge. It's close enough the bead isn't there for rigidity & is only for looks.

I like the layout idea but as mentioned it might be too busy. The issue is how to reduce while still maintaining the consistency w/the other areas. I like that idea of staggering/alternating the reduction of lengths to help tame things.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,151
23,827
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Nix that 6th line for sure as it's too close to the edge. It's close enough the bead isn't there for rigidity & is only for looks.

I like the layout idea but as mentioned it might be too busy. The issue is how to reduce while still maintaining the consistency w/the other areas. I like that idea of staggering/alternating the reduction of lengths to help tame things.

I’ve been thinking the same thing about that long first line closest to the edge. Too close , and really only there for consistency. Not sure how I’d eliminate it without it looking strange though.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,151
23,827
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Alright, I think I’ve finally made up my mind and am going to commit to this latest revision.
I axed the 1st line closest to the edge altogether, extended the 2nd one forward and changed the angle slightly to compensate, and bobbed the 3rd line. Then extended the 4th slightly. This is what I came up with:

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I think it looks the most natural and well balanced.

I also laid out the lines on the lower section of the floor, there’s an existing groove in the original floor that I’m going to incorporate and everything has to center around. Feel like I nailed these ones without too much trouble:

4DE5BAA6-B288-4851-AE72-80BC0F89D048.jpeg


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Also, here’s a better view of how the proposed lines align and tie in with the existing ones.

88D78A64-172B-46A7-85D8-91076030FC51.jpeg


The “no-fly zones” are the flat areas of the crossmember that the floor has to sit on, so I can’t have any roll lines across them. I am however, going to try to put some short little ones inside the recess so that there’s not a funny looking flat blank section running the width of the car in only one area.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,151
23,827
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Plan your material usage carefully kids, it don’t get much closer than this!

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Just barely had enough material for both sides.
2 days work, from concept to reality.

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Ooofa!!!

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Not too bad at all for the very first trial fit with absolutely zero tweaking. I’ll take it. Looks like the time spent refining the template over and over paid off!!!
 
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08Malibu

Royal Smart Person
Feb 9, 2014
1,447
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North Jersey
You may be right, I may be a masochist given the self inflicted crap I put myself through, but I assure you it’s completely unintentional. It just kinda seems to work out that way.

I’m quite familiar with the tape line method, I’ve used it several times myself, and on various areas of this car too. But while the tape method keeps the excess off the adjacent areas, it still leaves a line or ridge when the tape is removed. Sometimes it’s better to forego the tape just to not leave the ridge, which is what I elected to do here. By blending it completely flush with the adjacent panels like I did there, there’ll be no visible ridge to contend with. Looks a little uglier until it has a coating on it, but that’s short term in the big picture.

I appreciate the suggestion though, thank you.
Cake spatulas work really well for tooling seam sealer. There’s also certain degreasers that give a little bit of lubricity to your skin and allow you to smooth the tape edge before the seam sealer dries all the way.
Seam sealing is one of the things I miss about my old job in a collision shop. My buddy and I would always try and outdo each other to duplicate the factory jobs. So many guys do it so poorly, and it gives away the fact that the vehicle was repaired.
Love the look of the back panel and the revised floor.
 
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