The Monte Pit 78 MC

MTP-Madmat

MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
33

Took a short drive down the street. Everything seems to be working. Now to modify the exhaust
 
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UNGN

UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
2,579
113
Southlake, TX
This looks like a fun project. Search the threads in the forum for "tall ball joints" . if you are going to seriously autocross a G-body, this is a must do mod. Also put in "solid" greaseable lower control arm bushings in front. Those cheap mods + a high caster alignment will transform the cars handling at a autocross without spending a bunch of money.
 
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MTP-Madmat

MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
33
I’m all about cheap mods. I have poly bushings all around and on the body mounts. I’ve also been thinking of tubular upper arms in the front with tall ball joints top and bottom. Would you happen to know of a cheap way to put bigger brakes without doing the blazer spindles? Right now my spindles use 94 s10 rotors and gbody calipers. I can fit up to a 12” rotor I think with my 17” wheels
 
UNGN

UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
2,579
113
Southlake, TX
I’m all about cheap mods. I have poly bushings all around and on the body mounts. I’ve also been thinking of tubular upper arms in the front with tall ball joints top and bottom. Would you happen to know of a cheap way to put bigger brakes without doing the blazer spindles? Right now my spindles use 94 s10 rotors and gbody calipers. I can fit up to a 12” rotor I think with my 17” wheels
You can add LS1/C5 12" brakes to factory spindles, but it easier/cheaper to go to the junkyard and get S10 blazer ones. After you cut off the metric caliper mounts and drill/tap the dust shield holes for caiper brackets, you'll need a lathe to make hubs out of factory rotors for LS/C5 12" Rotors.. S1O hubs are already designed for separate rotors and are drilled for caliper bracket mounts.
 
MTP-Madmat

MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
33
They are drop spindles. Bell tech from summit. I have no problem cutting stuff and have access to a lathe. Trying to avoid needing drop springs on top of either new or junkyard spindles. I’m eventually going to put coil overs on the car.
 
UNGN

UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
2,579
113
Southlake, TX
If you are serious about autocrossing the car, stiffer cut springs + Tall ball joints will help a ton and are way cheaper and will ride better than coil overs for the same handling capability.

The idea that people can use coil overs to raise/lower the car is silly, especially with stock ball joints. The Toe change is huge with the stock geometry.
 
MTP-Madmat

MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
33
Here is a link to our race on the 16th. This is the first time on track after the 6 speed manual swap. I’ve gotta say the car feels much faster and puts the power down quicker

 
MTP-Madmat

MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
33
So it’s been awhile since my last update but not much changed until this summer. We hurt the motor at the March goodguys event so we had it rebuilt. It ended up being nothing major. We lowered the compression ratio with dished forged pistons and added a bigger mechanical flat tappet cam. The motor should rev higher and breathe better. It just came back from the machine shop and will be running by tomorrow.

We also bit the bullet and picked up a set of blazer spindles and did the C5 brake upgrade. Also changed all the wheel studs to 1/2”. Bought a set of used UMI double adjustable rear arms with rotojoints so that will free up the rear. Up front a set of spc upper control arms were added as well as tall ball joints. We relocated the mounting points for the front lower control arms to gain more caster. Now all we need is to get it running and a fresh set of tires then it should be ready for next season to start. That is about all my budget allowed for this summer. Eventually I’m going to put tubular front lower arms and coilovers all around.
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