"THE REAL OKIE" 84 el Camino build thread

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axisg

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 17, 2007
2,686
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YYZ
sorry for the triple post ; the website has been lagging on me lately.
Problem is brass is soft, much softer than steel. With the weight of the sensor and the length of the extensions you have created a situation that you now have leverage to break or fracture the brass piping with not much more than a nudge or extended vibration. For the low cost of a braided line and some zip ties to mount the sensor its worth it. If you don't need the clearance then thread the sensor into the block without the extensions. Another option is to grab steel extensions from the plumbing section of HD. They are much stronger
 

Ryan Harris

Apprentice
Mar 29, 2016
61
8
8
Oklahoma city
Got my rockers on and all the valves set. Used an indicator on the cylinder #1 so I could see what it felt like when the valves went into a negative lash since I've never done this before. Got number one set right, then went by feel from there on out. No up and down play, when I felt resistance against it spinning back and forth I went 1/4 turn more to preload lifter and then locked em down. (Poly locks) gonna go back thru and check them 1 more time before I put the intake on to make sure they are right. I'm just trying to take my time and do everything right since this is my first build.
 

Ryan Harris

Apprentice
Mar 29, 2016
61
8
8
Oklahoma city
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Ryan Harris

Apprentice
Mar 29, 2016
61
8
8
Oklahoma city
Well.. Took a break from working on the motor this past week because I had a tire that kept going flat and I realized it was siting against the frame rail. I had just put 275/60s on the rear, and when I installed them, they seemed to clear. As far as I could tell it was bc the air shock on that side was completely toast. I would add air, the left side would raise, no clearance issues but the right side didn't move. I tried airing the tire up and realized when it was full of air, the inside was sitting against the frame rail. I was told by the previous owner there had been some rear end damage when he bought it and a local body shop put new quarters on it and straightened the frame. It had been rear ended, or backed into sitting in front of his house right before I bought it. Bumper sagged a lil, I thought it was a bumper bracket, I'll get to it when I do body work on the car. Well I got underneath it to put the drag shocks on that I bought and found a huge problem. The frame is cracked and leaning over against the tire causing my tire problem, while also finding ANOTHER problem.... They is roughly a half inch of in and out play in my axles. I'm assuming the c clips are worn smooth out, and possibly the groove on the axles. I had already been looking for w rear end on Craigslist because I will not put a dime of my money into a 7.5 10 bolt. With over a month of searching previously I continued my CL search. I don't have 9 inch money, and as much as I know a 9 inch is a set it and forget it rear end, my strict mindset for this car is to build a reliable toy on a budget. I wanna show that fast fun can be had without dumping a house payment into my car every month. Well, I found a winner today. 8.2 inch 10 bolt out of a 67 Chevelle. Rebuilt 1500 miles ago, everything new but the brakes, which need relaxed. 3.36 open gear. Not quite the 3.73 I wanted to go behind my th350, but it's a def improvement over my current which is somewhere around 3.00, I'm assuming it's a 3.08. I know the 8.2 inch 10 bolt is not as desirable as a 12 bolt or even a 8.5 10 bolt, but all the A body 8.5s I'm seeing are 600-850 bucks. 12 bolts are outrageous. This thing is practically brand new, 28 spline, 3.36 gear. I'm gonna add a mini spool and a set of brakes. I bought it for 250 bucks. Since its out of a 66-67 Chevelle, it's only 3/4 of an inch wider on each side instead of 2 inches wider like the 68-72 chevelles. This will do nothing but help my tire hitting the frame problem, since I have ample room on the fender side. It will bolt right up with the control arm swap kit from umi. To fix the frame, I'm going to use a come along to pull the two frame rails together so the one isn't leaning, weld the crack, put patch braces on both sides of crack and weld a cross member in between the frame rails near the bumper.... My list is getting longer.
 
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