The bent finger diaphragm is preferential for performance applications. The flat fingers are notorious for not releasing at high rpms resulting in the clutch pedal staying on the floor
tight clutch pedal
- Thread starter cny78
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gnvair...right on, big dent pounded in the floor. So my extended clutch pedal issue is based on type of pplate?
Unfortunately, you have a system of mismatched parts with factory A body linkage with a non A body bell housing and fork. You really need to get the pressure plate and throw out bearing out as well to see what you have.
If it turns out I do have a long t/o bearing with a flat finger p/plate can/should I go ahead and run it with the super extended pedal? What do you think.
It's not the pedal height I would be afraid of. It's the lack of free play in the pedal that can wear the crank thrust flange and bearing out
Yeah, I thought along the same. Just don't want to wrestle with that trans again, but looks like that's where I'm headed. As you said, need to see what is actually in there. Really appreciate your input.
You have the wrong bellhousing, 3899621 is for '64-'77 A, '67-'81 F, '68-'79 X, '65-'75 B. This is the one all the repro parts sell as a "fits all". The fork is most likely a 14066235 that goes with that bellhousing, you'll need the 14007356 that our cars use. The fork ball stud listed for our cars is 3729000 (3/16"-16x1.38).
I know Chevy's had a lot of different manual trans parts. My '81 Malibu wagon came with the 229 V-6 and 3 speed Saginaw trans. It had the bent fork to clear the floor pan. When I swapped in Pontiac V-8's and 4 speeds I used a straight Firebird fork. I had to sledge hammer the floor up a bit for clearance. Now on my '83 Bonneville wagon I used a 301 engine with an OHC-6 bell housing and straight fork. It all fit perfectly like it was meant to be with no modification. Why? I don't know. Then when I serviced the clutch last winter I ended up with no free play and bad geometry. See this topic> https://gbodyforum.com/threads/a-crappy-task.71633/ . I can't explain it because I used the same pressure plate and fork. I changed the same disc and same throw-out bearing and had to resort to the adjustable ball stud to get the travel corrected. Then I ended up modifying the Z-bar to get better geometry and pedal travel.https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-linkage-z-bar-modification-success.72605/ Why? I still don't know. All I can conclude is that these parts are not really identical and you may need to be creative to get proper operation.
Pagrunt..the #14066235 is straight, correct? The #14007356 is curved, bent? Will that give me the space to reduce the tightness?
You are correct on both. The 14007356 will BUT it will only work with the 462606 (10.4"), 464697 (11"), 563441 (10.4" B.O.P.) bellhousings. You'll need to locate all the correct parts which may include going to a 10.4" clutch & flywheel or reengineer it as Bonnewagon done (& linked above) to make what yor have work. In the parts search, keep in mind the fork is repoped, the 11" housing is hard to find as it was a one year only item.
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