Bonnewagon...thanks for throwing in your experience. I checked out your threads, very interesting info, great photos. Yeah, I'm at why,why is this a problem now. Drove this 78 malibu with 4speed manual to my garage, and among numerous other things, put in new clutch kit. Bellhousing, fork, and linkage(bought new items from 4speed Conversion, all parts matched original from car) are the same. Only change was the p/plate,clutch, and t/o bearing. Now after install there is no free play at pedal. Had to cram the lower rod into fork recess, way too tight. Before I start messing with linkage, I'm wondering about the new t/o bearing. Does this make sense?
tight clutch pedal
- Thread starter cny78
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If I want to stay with my 621 bellhousing, 11" clutch, and straight fork, then my options to get acceptable pedal play lies with messing with linkage along the lines of Bonnewagon. Is this right?
Yes that will be what you'll have to do. He has a good write up & should be able to answer any questions that you may have on the mods.
Really appreciate your input. Helps when you're standing all alone in the garage staring at the car wondering what to do next.
CNY78 remember that the pressure plate fingers, disc, and throw-out bearing all add up to a certain height. That all has to fit inside the bell housing along with the fork that pivots on the ball stud. I would only use the bent finger diaphragm style pressure plate. The flat finger style was only used on six cylinder and very low performance cars. Different manufacturers make different dimension parts and I know the HAYES clutchs often had issues with finger height vs stock. There used to be three heights of GM throw-out bearings and ball studs but I don't know if that is true anymore. The fork is pretty much non-negotiable, you can only choose between bent or straight, the size is what it is. So the only adjust-ability lies in the bearing height and ball stud height. That is where you need to get the fork located in the window on the bell housing so you get proper fork travel through full engagement without hitting the housing. Once you get that the rest is easy. The lower clutch rod is adjustable and that is where you set your pedal free play. If there is not enough threads on yours then there are all kinds of different rods available. I used to prefer the BB Chevy style until I moved up to the spherical rod style which also adjusts at the upper rod. As pagrunt said, just ask and we will help.
Bonnewagon.... can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all the insight to my questions, thanks to all. I'm calling Precision where I bought the clutch plate to clear up p/plate type and t/o bearing height. I know my old t/o bearing was 1 1/4 but the p/plate looks flat to me? I'll check the fork movement in the bell housing for clearance with the new parts that are giving me no adjustment (lower rod as short as possible) and no free play at pedal. And take it from there. Hoping you stay available for the next piece of the puzzle.
I'll throw this one out there to see if anyone know the answer. Knowing the 462606 has the ball stud boss set up to of been drilled for the curved or straight fork, did the standard 11" bellhousings have the same ball stud boss to be drilled for either fork?
There's a clip on the fork that slides over the back of the pivot ball. Do you remember if that was clipped on correctly? It keeps the fork in place.
Also, I think there are clips on the fork fingers that hold the throw out bearing. Were those correct as well?
Trying to think of things that would contribute to 'different' this time.
Also, I think there are clips on the fork fingers that hold the throw out bearing. Were those correct as well?
Trying to think of things that would contribute to 'different' this time.
Forgot to add with them being the ones made after '78. But I'll accept no as being the most likely being the answer.
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