After alignment, I rechecked every nut and bolt put the rest of the car back together (wheel liners and small interrior panels.) then I put about 20miles on her with no hiccups. I am very pleased! The steering rack seems like it has some slop but it's not horrible. I know the z6 intake manafold was a pain to dile in but it really woke up that y7!
time for a new DD (honda EK project)
- Thread starter the ghoul
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Finally got the engine stable enough to do the 2 wire IACV swap so I could run the chipped ecu.
I performed this pin-swap
Made a block-off gasket out of a beer box
This will prevent air from traveling past the disabled 3 wire IACV
Here you can see the gasket sandwiched between the stock IACV and throttle body
Lastly it was a matter of wireing in the 2 wire IACV, I used a crv valve so wireing was streight forward as the wire colors matched (incase your wondering, the Orange wire is disabled and omitted for the 2 wire valve
I'm happy to report with the idle adjusted the car runs great on the chipped ecu. I truly think it even runs smoother and idles better on the chipped ecu!
I performed this pin-swap
Made a block-off gasket out of a beer box
This will prevent air from traveling past the disabled 3 wire IACV
Here you can see the gasket sandwiched between the stock IACV and throttle body
Lastly it was a matter of wireing in the 2 wire IACV, I used a crv valve so wireing was streight forward as the wire colors matched (incase your wondering, the Orange wire is disabled and omitted for the 2 wire valve
I'm happy to report with the idle adjusted the car runs great on the chipped ecu. I truly think it even runs smoother and idles better on the chipped ecu!
Rack swap done!
I used a rebuilt Ek non-power rack. It came with inner tierods, and I ordered moog outters.
The only significant difference I saw was the steering shaft, and shaft seal setup.
The steering shaft diameter is smaller on the manual rack; I wasn't able to source a replacement so I modified the stock one by cutting half of the non-threaded flange off
Then I oblonged the hole in the non-threaded segment and crushed it down a bit in a vice.
I then got the rack dressed (please note, I used one of the old bagfles as a steering shaft dust seal, then installed with the power steering seal to body on top of it.
Getting the universal bolt threaded was a bit tricky as the alignment of the holes were off because of my modification.
Rest of the install went very smooth, steering feels much lighter and response is very positive! I am very pleased all around!
I used a rebuilt Ek non-power rack. It came with inner tierods, and I ordered moog outters.
The only significant difference I saw was the steering shaft, and shaft seal setup.
The steering shaft diameter is smaller on the manual rack; I wasn't able to source a replacement so I modified the stock one by cutting half of the non-threaded flange off
Then I oblonged the hole in the non-threaded segment and crushed it down a bit in a vice.
I then got the rack dressed (please note, I used one of the old bagfles as a steering shaft dust seal, then installed with the power steering seal to body on top of it.
Getting the universal bolt threaded was a bit tricky as the alignment of the holes were off because of my modification.
Rest of the install went very smooth, steering feels much lighter and response is very positive! I am very pleased all around!
New windshield was installed today and I knocked together a battery box. It felt good to do some sheet metal fabrication again!
The low profile battery really worked out perfectly; with the battery box in place the trunk floor fits over top of it nicely
The low profile battery really worked out perfectly; with the battery box in place the trunk floor fits over top of it nicely
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