To Roto Joint or Not To Roto Joint

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Dang y'all, gonna have me wanting to swap out my uppers and lowers this winter! Mine are all poly, well because that was the thing to do years back when I bought them. As with tech advancements, the roto joints are the cats meow and show long term strength. Better start saving.
There's nothing wrong with the poly's - until you change the ride height, the driveshaft angle or rear suspension responsiveness. For a stock height in a hot street setup - no issues with poly's IMO.

How tough are the roto joints? I can show a picture of bent lower arms with undamaged roto joints. Please don't ask for the photo - it pains me every time I look at those parts.
 
I have adjustable poly uppers and lowers on my daily everything else is rubber. No binding or noise, car squats and hooks like it never has before. Adding 300 HP soon. Will see how it works out with the extra power.
 

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This is what Chong Li tells me all the time. And he'd kick my azz if I did anything else. Anyway, your sutuation is one of those "depends" moments to me.

Sure, articulation is gained, plus adjustability for pinion angles as previously mentioned. Major plus points. And depending who you buy from, there's not much of a price difference, if any in some cases, between full poly bushed adjustable links and the heim joints. Coupons make it even better.

BUT- if you're needing the articulation, swapping rear ends or making your own spring heights, leave the line hooking up like a ****, and bowing that car up at the starting line like a bull ready to blow his load, then by all means, go for the swivel heads. If you're trying to make it a handler, you'd already have all this anyway.

If you're going to stay stock, or even with slightly warmed over drivetrain, the car isn't going to GAF about 1/2 degree pinion angle difference from a poly-bushed non-adjustable arm. Or even new stock rubber-bushed ones. Also you may experience a little more vibration with the articulation type. But nothing a tad more volume on the radio won't fix. Although, it seems like it would be a solid piece for sure.

I think you're just trying to justify the heim joint purchase to yourself. It's only money, you can't take it with you, but it seems you've already made up your mind. Just buy the heims and hush. 🙂
 
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This is what Chong Li tells me all the time. And he'd kick my azz if I did anything else. Anyway, your sutuation is one of those "depends" moments to me.

Sure, articulation is gained, plus adjustability for pinion angles as previously mentioned. Major plus points. And depending who you buy from, there's not much of a price difference, if any in some cases, between full poly bushed adjustable links and the heim joints. Coupons make it even better.

BUT- if you're needing the articulation, swapping rear ends or making your own spring heights, leave the line hooking up like a ****, and bowing that car up at the starting line like a bull ready to blow his load, then by all means, go for the swivel heads. If you're trying to make it a handler, you'd already have all this anyway.

If you're going to stay stock, or even with slightly warmed over drivetrain, the car isn't going to GAF about 1/2 degree pinion angle difference from a poly-bushed non-adjustable arm. Or even new stock rubber-bushed ones. Also you may experience a little more vibration with the articulation type. But nothing a tad more volume on the radio won't fix. Although, it seems like it would be a solid piece for sure.

I think you're just trying to justify the heim joint purchase to yourself. It's only money, you can't take it with you, but it seems you've already made up your mind. Just buy the heims and hush. 🙂
I'm not looking at the adjustable ones as the car is going to be at/near stock height & stock 7.5 rear with what GM claimed to be a 300 horse engine back in '70. The desire is to make it handle a little better as it'll be more of a highway car since I have to drive to get to anywhere (plus anything to make Pa roads nicer to ride on would be good.) I already have stock arms with poly bushings installed. Another reason is to me a silly reason is to add just a bit more clearance in the area where the exhaust is near cause I never did like how close the pipes usally sit near the upper arms. With the UMI non adjustable tube type have an option of using either a poly bushing or roto joint makes me wonder which would be the best option other than a $50 difference in cost. Another plus is they are greasable compaired to what I have now.
 
I would essentially not recommend non adjustable upper control arms.

The G body rear ends are rarely, if ever, centered in the chassis and pinion angle is entirely a guess.
 
It is one of those times when IMO it is better to have the adjustability there if and when you need it at some point in the future than to have to upgrade later when the cost has gone up and then you have to R & R the previous set of arms and probably try and sell them to get a only a portion of your money back.
 
I would essentially not recommend non adjustable upper control arms.

The G body rear ends are rarely, if ever, centered in the chassis and pinion angle is entirely a guess.
For the extra couple dollars, it would definitely be worth it. Now, roto or poly? That's another story.
If it comes down to money, go poly adjustable, not fixed roto.
 
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