Top End Kit for my Olds 350 in my 1987 Cutlass.

[Bar50]

I think a complete running 455 (and probably a TH400) is great. It is in a running car so you can test drive it. It has all the accessories...so you would need a a/c manifoldor line to connect the early long 455 compressor to your set up, I have used a 78' a/c line to do this and have had the ends swapped and crimped.

The 455 was designed to drag around 4800 pound luxo-barge cars and even motor homes effortlessly, so a Cutlass is nothing. It's stone stock and runs on pump gas. It will have 500 lb/ft of torque. It will drop right in. It will be epic compared to a 307 or 350. Plus, you don't have to have a cam, or heads, or blah, blah, blah....it's a big block. Come on, headers, for what, 15-20 horse power? Eh, spend you money on a simple plate system and a posi.

Now, I wold say the exact same thing if it was a 403...it's complete in a car you could drive. Makes heart transplants so simple.

 

[marcar1993]

A lot of talk about girdles. That's a dangerous subject. But I will say that a halo girdle does nothing but keep your block in less broken pieces, in my opinion. Race engines have proven that a solid motor mount stretches the walls of your block when the engine torques, and causes main failure. And a halo girdle does nothing to stop THIS failure. To me it's just fancy straps with the aid in cap walk. Most experienced olds guys run rubber or no engine mounts with front and mid plate with full pan rail girdle. Even seen solid motor mounts with full rail girdle, and lots of HP. Halo girdle helps cap walk. Full rail girdle also keeps mains safe. So girdle selection is build specific. So 400hp don't mean get a girdle. Cap walk is high RPM related most the times I've seen. So ask your engine builder or machine shop. Any style girdle isn't cheap and require machine work.

I agree that girdle and the machine work isn't cheap. I have about $700 in my girdle, machining the caps, and line honing the mains. However, a halo ABSOLUTELY helps the block survive. Here is why:
1) Only the center 3 mains are windowed, you are tieing them into the front and rear mains, which are solid.
2) Forces act upon different parts of the block in different instances, the girdle spreads this load across a greater area.

Many Oldsmobile builders swear by girdles, both halo and full rails. At a certain limit, you are taxing the block's ability to stay together, a girdle helps to spread that load and take strain off pressure points by dispersing the load.
You are right, 400hp does not warrant a girdle, but if you are building a windowed main block, you need one at that level, even below. Also, there is no argument that a full rail girdle is stronger, but at the 400hp level you don't need one, even on a windowed block, this right from Jim @ J&S machine, the 403 girdle man himself in regards to my motor.
Also, solid mounts are NOT a help in any case for an engine, by not allowing some dampening to occur, resonance will do damage over time, be it breaking a bolt, the mount, or the block. Obviously most survive, but that is an instance where everything is strong enough to begin with. Real race cars use plate mounting systems, which while they are solid mounted act as a girdle/support to the front and rear of the block, helping with the resonance issue.

 

[spencer83]

I agree that girdle and the machine work isn't cheap. I have about $700 in my girdle, machining the caps, and line honing the mains. However, a halo ABSOLUTELY helps the block survive. Here is why:
1) Only the center 3 mains are windowed, you are tieing them into the front and rear mains, which are solid.
2) Forces act upon different parts of the block in different instances, the girdle spreads this load across a greater area.

Many Oldsmobile builders swear by girdles, both halo and full rails. At a certain limit, you are taxing the block's ability to stay together, a girdle helps to spread that load and take strain off pressure points by dispersing the load.
You are right, 400hp does not warrant a girdle, but if you are building a windowed main block, you need one at that level, even below. Also, there is no argument that a full rail girdle is stronger, but at the 400hp level you don't need one, even on a windowed block, this right from Jim @ J&S machine, the 403 girdle man himself in regards to my motor.
Also, solid mounts are NOT a help in any case for an engine, by not allowing some dampening to occur, resonance will do damage over time, be it breaking a bolt, the mount, or the block. Obviously most survive, but that is an instance where everything is strong enough to begin with. Real race cars use plate mounting systems, which while they are solid mounted act as a girdle/support to the front and rear of the block, helping with the resonance issue.

I appreciate all of the knowledge on girdles. I'm just going to keep searching, and gain more knowledge. I'm pretty sure with all the help that I'm receiving, my build will come out great.

 

[spencer83]

Just saw this on CL

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/pts/5920836997.html

 

[80special]

I agree that girdle and the machine work isn't cheap. I have about $700 in my girdle, machining the caps, and line honing the mains. However, a halo ABSOLUTELY helps the block survive. Here is why:
1) Only the center 3 mains are windowed, you are tieing them into the front and rear mains, which are solid.
2) Forces act upon different parts of the block in different instances, the girdle spreads this load across a greater area.

Many Oldsmobile builders swear by girdles, both halo and full rails. At a certain limit, you are taxing the block's ability to stay together, a girdle helps to spread that load and take strain off pressure points by dispersing the load.
You are right, 400hp does not warrant a girdle, but if you are building a windowed main block, you need one at that level, even below. Also, there is no argument that a full rail girdle is stronger, but at the 400hp level you don't need one, even on a windowed block, this right from Jim @ J&S machine, the 403 girdle man himself in regards to my motor.
Also, solid mounts are NOT a help in any case for an engine, by not allowing some dampening to occur, resonance will do damage over time, be it breaking a bolt, the mount, or the block. Obviously most survive, but that is an instance where everything is strong enough to begin with. Real race cars use plate mounting systems, which while they are solid mounted act as a girdle/support to the front and rear of the block, helping with the resonance issue.

Sorry, but I think you misunderstood my post. I never said a halo girdle didn't work. I stated fact, That when a block streches between the oil pan rails a halo girdle does nothing. How would it keep the block from stretching? I said all girdles have there place. And I stated that solid engine mounts are a BAD idea without motor plates. And I never told him to get a full rail girdle either. At 400hp and a windowed block, the cash to do any girdle is pointless in my mind. It's still a windowed main. I stated fact and the uses for a girdle. I gave NO recommendation for his engine. I'm not here to argue. Every girdle has its place. And every engine has it limitations. I can tell you over the years my family has scraped many, many olds race engines due to many failures, and after awhile ppl start to notice things that work and don't work, and what fails and where.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Even if the Halo girdle does nothing but holds the pieces in, if you are running at the track, that is important too. I got pulled due to 2004R puking oil out vent in the top, I like it over full. I am running a hose and catch can when it goes in the 70 S.

 

[80special]

A halo girdle helps cap walk, or any movement of the main caps. If you are spinning a webbed block at high enough RPM to cause cap walk then watch out, the mains are on borrowed time. A halo girdle does little or nothing for the main webs. They are cap straps, that lock the caps in place. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Oldsmobile-MA...lock-350-403-c-Finest-Chinesium-/151173321106
This has been on eBay for years. And it gets brought up every time there's girdle talk. The webed mains are not as weak as lots of ppl think. They have been romped on for years, no girdles. So did that halo make your engine last? Well it didn't hurt but again, girdle requirements are build specific. If you take a 200hp engine and slap it with a 150 shot of nitrous off the transbreak at 5g, you better get a rail girdle. But say you have 350hp NA off the footbreak and keep it around 4-5g then get straps or the halo. The halo being the better option.

 

[Bar50]

Just saw this on CL

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/pts/5920836997.html

Not bad, how much is the other 455?

I would like an 8.5 rear, but, $1,100 goes a long way on other stuff.

 

[spencer83]

Not bad, how much is the other 455?

I would like an 8.5 rear, but, $1,100 goes a long way on other stuff.

Looks like 1200

 

[spencer83]

Just picked up a Holley Ultra DP 650 Cfm w/electric choke.