Top End Kit for my Olds 350 in my 1987 Cutlass.

[spencer83]

Yes, an older 68-76 block would be a good idea, since they will have solid main webs and are stronger. The late block can do 400hp with work, people do it to 403's with more rotating mass and the same windowed mains, but why build a windowed 350 when a good early block can be found for $1-200?
I would also say, if you are going the stroker route, why not get flat tops and go big block heads? Everyone agrees they are the head to do on a 403. I have them on mine and they work great. If you are coming into the upper 300 cubic inch range, why wouldn't it work the same for you? The only issue is that you will probably need to cut them a bit due to the big ~84cc chambers, but that's a cheap price to pay for the big flow, and they usually have the meat to cut them down a lot.

At this point, I think we are all still throwing ideas out, but why not look through some of the builds in that section of rop you posted in? There are plenty of motors in your power range, I'm sure there's a 350 build there doing what you are looking to do.

Also, I agree, don't forget to upgrade the rest of the car. You WILL NEED to upgrade the trans and rear if you expect to put down this power and actually have it last. My first 403 cooked a th350 and it wasn't that powerful (*maybe* 300hp at the flywheel). I then cooked another one cheaping out, not going to the right builder. I have had luck not blowing up rears, but traction has always been a problem, and that saves rears.

Okay, thanks

 

[spencer83]

Don't worry though. As Marcar mentioned these engines are plentiful because frankly, if it's not a chevy 350, no body wants anything to do with them. Olds 350s are super cheap to buy, but the parts do cost a bit more. Going fast with class doesn't come Chevy cheap. You don't have to throw your engine away, you just have to take the necessary steps to beef it up. Or, just get a 68-76 solid main block, bore it .030 over, and use your 78-80 bottom end with new pistons and bearings. Badda-bing-badda-boom.

I'll try to find one, I'm on it! Thanks

 

[Bar50]

Look for a 403 or 455.

Either one stock or mild with a 125 plate is great!

If you plan on using slicks then go with a 9 inch. A more budget friendly (sort-of) option is to change to 28 spline axles and a 28 spline carrier/posi in your 7.5. I had one last for a 3-4 years of regular drag race/brakect use with slicks running 11.70s to 10.70s when I upgraded.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Good part of finding another block is your car still moves while you build your motor. I have found good 76 Olds 350's for as cheap as $50, came with a decent 76 two door. The last one was $120, very good shape, my current motor. The 455's here run around $750 for a core.

 

[spencer83]

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html

What year is this motor?

 

[MrSony]

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html

What year is this motor?

It's a 68-76 solid web motor, that's for sure. My dad's has the same number, but you need to remove the water pump and timing cover to decode further. His had the same number and was a 71. I'd say go for it, regardless of what year (1968-1976) it may be. It's still better than your windowed block. And when/if you get it, you can decode further. There were virtually no differences between the blocks from 1968-1976. only differences were cylinder heads and piston dish.

 

[MrSony]

It also said it was rebuilt, if that checks out, one could just take it apart, MARKING WHERE EVERYTHING GOES, see why it wont turn over, maybe hone it to get any rust out of the cylinders, and slam it back together with new gaskets. May turn out to be teh easiest rebuild ever.

 

[spencer83]

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html

What year is this motor?

It's a 68-76 solid web motor, that's for sure. My dad's has the same number, but you need to remove the water pump and timing cover to decode further. His had the same number and was a 71. I'd say go for it, regardless of what year (1968-1976) it may be. It's still better than your windowed block. And when/if you get it, you can decode further. There were virtually no differences between the blocks from 1968-1976. only differences were cylinder heads and piston dish.

this is great. I'll call him tomorrow.

 

[spencer83]

It also said it was rebuilt, if that checks out, one could just take it apart, MARKING WHERE EVERYTHING GOES, see why it wont turn over, maybe hone it to get any rust out of the cylinders, and slam it back together with new gaskets. May turn out to be teh easiest rebuild ever.

I hope so.

 

[Bar50]

I would buy this...

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/pts/5919640116.html

This would make life sooooo much easier....

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/pts/5906406713.html