I’m in south Florida. We get them random hurricanes out of no where (not really hurricanes but it’s a stormy af). Would def need to figure that out. Maybe a scoop up front that drops away from block. Not planning on driving in the rain, but man it’s hard to avoid down here. Gonna look into that air meter. Thanks again. 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Twin turbo ls overheating issue
- Thread starter johnnunez29
- Start date
I wrote manometer, but I meant anemometer...tongue twisters...LOL
Here's one example, there's tons of them at different price points, so you'll wanna maybe check out some reviews on the YT thingy.
It’s all good. I ain’t know wth that was ANYWAYS 🤣. I would have just been typing ‘air flow meter’I wrote manometer, but I meant anemometer...tongue twisters...LOL
Here's one example, there's tons of them at different price points, so you'll wanna maybe check out some reviews on the YT thingy.
I just read that your intake pipes are between the radiator and engine. You’re fighting a difficult battle having a factory hood and inner fenders. I personally don’t see you winning this battle based on my experience. I’ve built 3 of these and had inner fenders in all of them. The only success I had with a factory hood was removing the cowl seal and spacing the hood up about a 1/2” in the rear to allow the air from the fans to escape the engine bay. But that looks silly.
You’re heat soaking the intercooler, pipes, intake and heads. Air flow has to be present to get rid of the heat soak. With a proper air dam that sucks the heat out of the bay to underneath the car when driving will work, but not sitting still. When the fans engage, if you can’t feel the air flow outside of the engine bay (somewhere), then you’re destined to battle with this.
All of my cars have a cowl induction hood for a reason. Not covering the turbos and using up and forward headers just compounds the problem. You mentioned pages back that opening the hood helps a lot - there’s your sign.
You’re heat soaking the intercooler, pipes, intake and heads. Air flow has to be present to get rid of the heat soak. With a proper air dam that sucks the heat out of the bay to underneath the car when driving will work, but not sitting still. When the fans engage, if you can’t feel the air flow outside of the engine bay (somewhere), then you’re destined to battle with this.
All of my cars have a cowl induction hood for a reason. Not covering the turbos and using up and forward headers just compounds the problem. You mentioned pages back that opening the hood helps a lot - there’s your sign.
I’m actually running a 2” cowl hood. But I don’t think it’s doing much. I ordered the brushless fans that flow 4200 cfm
And a shroud to mount on. Likely going to need to order steel inner fenders. But first!!!… I gotta keep the damn car running. Thanks again for all the help 💪🏼💪🏼
If it runs in wasted spark (crank trigger only), then do that.
What did you do to resolve the key switch issue that was making the fuel pump run randomly and forcing key cycles to reset?
What did you do to resolve the key switch issue that was making the fuel pump run randomly and forcing key cycles to reset?
id like to figure out the issue with cam so that it can run as it should. id imagine theres some type of issue not running a cam sensor. i origianlly sandblasted the car inside and out and there was sand EVERYWHERE. i would not be surprised if thats somehow causing an issue.
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