Twin turbo ls overheating issue

[johnnunez29]

Heat soak is the issue. A blanket will move the heat out the downpipe. The turbo will reach temps that are never seen in a factory application.

I don’t know what turbo you have, but I’ve never heard of anyone indicating that a turbo blanket will hurt. I’ll agree that one isn’t needed if you have an open engine bay, but you don’t. I’ve melted 3 inner fenders in error - changing them sucks if you want you engine bay to look nice.

turbos are boostlab i believe journal bearing. The gentleman i spoke to said that the enclosed heat can damage the internals. i havent seen many bad reviews on their products but yes they are not a big company

 

[doood]

Maybe not a good design?

That is good. Steamline to pump outlet. Good. Should be some suction on the steam line there.

 

[johnnunez29]

That is good. Steamline to pump outlet. Good. Should be some suction on the steam line there.

Well it’s installed ran it yesterday up to like 195 but ran out of fuel again. Apparently I’ve built a guzzler lol. So gonna hopefully take a gallon and drive her to the gas station.

 

[64nailhead]

Well it’s installed ran it yesterday up to like 195 but ran out of fuel again. Apparently I’ve built a guzzler lol. So gonna hopefully take a gallon and drive her to the gas station.

If you have the learn turned on in the idle areas where you are letting it run to warm up, then running it out of fuel will make a genuine mess of your fuel table because the Holley will be actively changing the fuel table section of the tune due to lack of fuel. Then when you get fuel back in it, it will run stupid rich until it relearns. It's a recipe for a tuning nightmare.

 

[johnnunez29]

If you have the learn turned on in the idle areas where you are letting it run to warm up, then running it out of fuel will make a genuine mess of your fuel table because the Holley will be actively changing the fuel table section of the tune due to lack of fuel. Then when you get fuel back in it, it will run stupid rich until it relearns. It's a recipe for a tuning nightmare.

Great to know! How do I turn that off? Can it be turned off?

 

[64nailhead]

Great to know! How do I turn that off? Can it be turned off?

Yes, it can turned off. It’s hard to talk you through it without a video call.

Send me a copy your tune and I can do it for you. Will take 10 minutes.

 

[melloelky]

Yes, it can turned off. It’s hard to talk you through it without a video call.

Send me a copy your tune and I can do it for you. Will take 10 minutes.

that's what I'm talking about,nice job Jim.

 

[johnnunez29]

Yes, it can turned off. It’s hard to talk you through it without a video call.

Send me a copy your tune and I can do it for you. Will take 10 minutes.

thanks! was able to get it turned off and went out on vacay (much needed). just got back to my headache. i did the 2 small holes in the 160 degree t stat, upgraded fans to a dual 12" 3400cfm maradyne setup ( they pull tons of air but it is HOT!), changed engine oil to break in oil (had synthetic oil in there and was seeing a lot of smoke) this was unrelated but it seems like MUCH less smoke now. car goes to 220 in idle and up to 232 after driving and comes down very slowly (it is not hot today). But if i open the hood the temp drops quick. So im thinking i have way too much heat in my engine bay of course twin turbo, bored and stroked engine dont help, i need to figure a way to get heat out. So im thinking of wrapping all the pipes down to the down pipe.

 

[johnnunez29]

I answered that in previous posts. I'd let it get close to 230 before shutting it down. And that is with the radiator cap installed. Verify that the thermostat is opening via heat gun on the radiator pipes and watching the coolant temp on the 3.5" handheld. Once you shut the motor off - do not touch it until the coolant temp is down to less than 110-120 degrees and less than 100 is even better. Then check the coolant level and see if it took any in - lather rinse repeat until the level in the radiator at sub 120 degrees is the same on every check.

During this process, if you cannot tell when the thermostat opens via temperature readings on every warmup and cooldown cycle, then you have an issue causing the overheat condition.


I re-read all of this thread as it seems that you still have the issue and we are repeating some of the same info. I did more than just glance at your engine bay photo. You need a turbo blanket unless you don't mind having your inner fender and coolant reservoir getting melted. Wrapping the headers and bellows pipes helps as well, but wrapping those headers is a pita unless you remove them. You'll find that most guys running up and forward headers are running them without any inner fenders, and there is a reason for that - the inner fenders stop air flow from exiting the engine compartment. But I LOVE THEM - STREET CAR BROTHER!!!!

ot sure how i didnt read this. but i def need my inner fenders, thats where my coils and resrvoirs are attached . I also like them . but i may just cut them up some, def need to get more air flow in there. I do not mind wrapping everything and will likely have no choice, today was interesting. This car still has a cam sensor issue with the holley terminator. Very intermittent.

 

[64nailhead]

A quick test is to pop off the hood and see if it still runs warm. It sounds like the lower temp thermostat didn't solve much. What temp is the thermostat opening at? You should be able to tell when the radiator hoses get hot. With a 160 t-stat, by the time the coolant gets to 180, the hoses should be cooking, And you should see a minimum of 25 degree difference between the inlet and outlet. And when the temp is at 210-220, they both should be hot enough that you can barely touch them.

What is the cam sensor issue?

Have you verified timing with this?