Undercarraige Painting?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Nov 4, 2012
6,040
12,832
113
Geo, it's a pretty straightforward task. I took my front clip off first, but you don't have to. Make sure you disconnect the brake lines, Trans cooler lines, heater core hoses, wires to the firewall, speedo cable, e brake cable and steering shaft. It may help to have the driveshaft out. From there, unbolt the 14 bolts holding the body onto the frame. Now you can get a Jack on one side and lift the body about 4" and slide 2 4x4 boards between the frame and the body. Get on the other side and lift the body up 4 inches (or just level) and pull the 4x4s through so they go all the way across. From here you can lift either side of the body up gradually with a Jack and some small stands until you can get it to where you want. Also if you don't have purpose-made body stands like I used, 55 gallon drums work great.
 

Geo's66

Master Mechanic
Oct 7, 2014
471
105
28
Joe those stands look good and a lot less space than drums, where did you get them? Thanks...
 

MUELLERBU

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 6, 2013
47
0
6
Delta, Bc
My two cents the rust converter is a great product provided your prep is done correctly, we used rust converter to seal up some rusting welds on a high rise here in Vancouver 39th floor of a high rise next to the ocean (salty air, & in a rainforest enviroment) no issues since, However our prep was meticulous & there are no rocks hitting from underneath that might compromise the finish, another product we used that amazed me was a two part marine paint which consisted of one part adhesive & one part paint, you would not want to spray this stuff without proper respiratory protection or in a confined space (ie garage) or you'd be higher than a kite for a week, bottom line our test paint with this was a 5' chunk of "C" channel that we left on the side of the house sitting in mud for 5 years after painting, when I moved we found it in mud washed it off, wiped it & it looked like the day we painted it no rust & seems to withstand abrasions pretty good
 

GBoDYon4s

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2013
209
28
28
So,CA.
A good affordable way to go is epoxy primer the chassis saver extremely durable and will not break the bank
 

slingshot

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 9, 2014
30
13
8
A good affordable way to go is epoxy primer the chassis saver extremely durable and will not break the bank
After having done several car undersides with various products, I feel compelled to add my 2 cents. I have used POR 15 on many things, including car frames and it looked wonderful when the surface was prepared properly. You don't just apply it over a rusted surface, but must clean it with their cleaning product and then acid etch for proper adhesion of their paint. If done correctly, it looks close to powder coat.

I have used PPG DP 90 on rusted metal and it also works well on a cleaned , but rusted surfaces. On my current project, a 79 Malibu wagon, I cleaned the entire bottom of the car with cleaner and power wash, then brush painted the underside with PPG DP 90. It adhered well, but the brush made it difficult to get in all the nooks and crannies. This was all done in my driveway in a residential neighborhood over a plastic drop cloth. The fuel tank had been removed and painted POR silver. In the end, I wanted to get all the missed spots, so tried Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator aerosol for that job. It easily reached all the spots I had missed with the brush and provided a nicer finish than I had achieved with the PPG and brush.

If I were doing it over, for ease of application and final appearance, I'd just use the Rust Encapsulator. If I were building a show car. I'd remove the body, sandblast the frame after susp disassembly, clean and prep as required by the manufacturer and apply the POR. I prefer the look of the gloss black, but that is an individual preference. It comes in many colors, so contrasting color choices remain for the control arms and differential, for example. They call it powder coat in a can for a reason.

In summary, there are many products that will get the job done, you choose the level finish and amount of prep you are prepared to do for your particular job. If you are simply looking for fast coverage of a surface rusted area, including inside doors, that will look decent, Rust Encapsulator aerosol should be a consideration. If you want a good base to hold a top coat, PPG DP epoxy primer might be what you are looking for. (As a side note, I have found adding 1/3 more hardener to the PPG will give it a semi gloss finish. This is not recommended if there will be a top coat, but works fine as a final finish.) If you want a high finish on a rusted surface and willing to do the prep, POR a good choice. In the past, I have always brushed on the POR, as it flows very well and leaves no brush trails. There is my 2 cents worth.
 
  • Like
  • Agree
Reactions: 2 users
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor