want to run mid to low 11's

[wolfs1959]

Hello what would it take motor,frame and suspension wise to run these kind of times in a gbody. I used to "tinker" with them back in highschool but its been awile.

will the factory frame rear suspension hold up to the torque (launch's) for these kind of times?

could someone point me in the right direction to get the suspension set up?

rearend? swap out for 12 bolt? upgrades?... ?

I am still looking for a car at the moment but would like to get an idea of what im getting into. I'm seriously looking into a v6 car that is for sale localy that is in great shape body and frame wise(seems like alot of them i have looked at have had bad rust on the frame by the rear bumper. also what would, if any, downfalls be to starting with a v6 car, frame rearend...?

this car will be my daily driver in the summer months with some "track" time and garaged in the winter. I am looking for rock solid reliable. if i have to I will overbuild just to make sure. I honestly am getting tired of wrenching I have been doing it full time job for almost 15yrs and i want to build a gbody and drive it for the next 10 or so years without having to do any major work other than routine maint.

alot of ?'s i know

thanks

Joe

 

[79elky454ss]

Go to ebay and search "g body 9 inch" you can buy a ford 9 inch housing direct bolt in. with disc brakes and gears to your specs around 2 grand. A guy on here (nightmare) has that setup and it looks really tight

 

[Nightmare388]

Hello what would it take motor,frame and suspension wise to run these kind of times in a gbody. I used to "tinker" with them back in highschool but its been awile.

will the factory frame rear suspension hold up to the torque (launch's) for these kind of times?

could someone point me in the right direction to get the suspension set up?

rearend? swap out for 12 bolt? upgrades?... ?

I am still looking for a car at the moment but would like to get an idea of what im getting into. I'm seriously looking into a v6 car that is for sale localy that is in great shape body and frame wise(seems like alot of them i have looked at have had bad rust on the frame by the rear bumper. also what would, if any, downfalls be to starting with a v6 car, frame rearend...?

this car will be my daily driver in the summer months with some "track" time and garaged in the winter. I am looking for rock solid reliable. if i have to I will overbuild just to make sure. I honestly am getting tired of wrenching I have been doing it full time job for almost 15yrs and i want to build a gbody and drive it for the next 10 or so years without having to do any major work other than routine maint.

alot of ?'s i know

thanks

Joe

I'm not sure what kind of motor you are going to run but you will need to get 400-500hp out of it to run 11's or make your g body really light with fiberglass and a lot of stripping of a lot of parts you could do without. I would use a SB Chevy myself. it is cheaper to build and easier to find parts. Especially used parts. More cubic inches the better. I would start with a 383 or 406 SB Chevy. You could go with a Big block Chevy but then it will cost a lot more and the motor is 200+ lbs heavier than a small block. The stock rear won't last to long with that kind of power. I would look for a GN rear or maybe upgrade to a Ford 9". I would put Summit 90/10 drag shocks in the front and 50/50 drag shocks in the rear. I would also put Moroso trick springs all the way around. Maybe put a set of South Side Machine lift bars on the rear to hook up good. A good set of BF Goodrich Drag radials would greatly help also. I would also use a turbo 400 trans or 700r4 or even a 350 turbo if it is built right. Maybe a 2800-3000 stall converter 10 inch dia. I would use 3.73 to 4.11 gears in the rear also. Only problem with the Moroso springs and 90/10 shocks in the front is that you have to be careful of the pot holes and going up and down driveways because the car will bottom out if your not careful. I used them on my Pro street S-10 for 3 years with no problems. I drove it to work all the time. It was a daily driver most of the time. I would put racing seats in the car also to lighten the car a little. I would also mount the battery in the trunk over the right rear tire. Just my 2 cents worth. My Prostreet S-10 had a 383,a Ford 9" rear with 20 inch wide Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro tires with 4.88 rear gears because the tires were 29+ inches tall.Turbo 400 trans. 3000 stall converter. Drag shocks all the way around and Moroso springs in the front and lowered leaf springs in the rear. The truck weighed 2910 LBS without me in it. It ran 11.60's

 

[wolfs1959]

Ok so you think closer to 500 hp would be better probably?

what are south side machine lift bars? like lader bars or something?

I have a prety healthy 350 already built that i am going to use until i get majority of the parts rounded up for the "end result". I have a vortec waiting for my last engine wanting to build a 383, patriot? heads undicided on these they are fairly new to the market, 9.8:1 comp., somewere around 240to245 deg. dur. at .050 lift roller cam... this should get me up there with good tuning. I dont want to step on anyones toes but i have had bad luck with 400's in the past and would rather stay away from them. even if there is 20 people that convince me otherwise the whole time im driving the car it will be in the back of my head if you know what i mean.

when you say 50/50 and 90/10 drag shocks what is the ratio stand for?

How well do you think a GN rear (this is if i can find one) hold up? is anyone or has anyone here ran one for awile. 2000$ for a 9" huh thats a little steep(for my budget) is it a direct bolt in job or driveshafts have to be cut up....?

If the guy hasnt sold it yet im going to look at an 84 regal monday. body isnt in bad shape but it does have a 6cyl. there is also an 84 cutlass v8 with a blown motor. i would like to look at but its is qite a drive from me and it will have to be trailered.


thanks for the replies and sorry if any of these are dumb questions.

Joe

 

[Nightmare388]

Ok so you think closer to 500 hp would be better probably?

what are south side machine lift bars? like lader bars or something?

I have a prety healthy 350 already built that i am going to use until i get majority of the parts rounded up for the "end result". I have a vortec waiting for my last engine wanting to build a 383, patriot? heads undicided on these they are fairly new to the market, 9.8:1 comp., somewere around 240to245 deg. dur. at .050 lift roller cam... this should get me up there with good tuning. I dont want to step on anyones toes but i have had bad luck with 400's in the past and would rather stay away from them. even if there is 20 people that convince me otherwise the whole time im driving the car it will be in the back of my head if you know what i mean.

when you say 50/50 and 90/10 drag shocks what is the ratio stand for?

How well do you think a GN rear (this is if i can find one) hold up? is anyone or has anyone here ran one for awile. 2000$ for a 9" huh thats a little steep(for my budget) is it a direct bolt in job or driveshafts have to be cut up....?

If the guy hasnt sold it yet im going to look at an 84 regal monday. body isnt in bad shape but it does have a 6cyl. there is also an 84 cutlass v8 with a blown motor. i would like to look at but its is qite a drive from me and it will have to be trailered.


thanks for the replies and sorry if any of these are dumb questions.

Joe

The more HP&TQ the better. You either need a lot of HP&TQ or make your car as light as possible.I can't find any pictures of SSM lift bars but here is the lakewood version click here> http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... _321654_-1
I feel the same way you do about a 400 that is why I have a 388 stroker. If I remember right I think 50/50 means 50% resistance up and 50% resistance down and the 90/10 is 10% resistance up and 90% resistance down. I have never had a GN rear but I've heard they are pretty strong if set up right. They are hard to get around my area that is why I went with a Ford 9".I have about $1400 total in my Ford 9" I got the rear from a guy on Ebay for $715 plus $85 shipping thats axles and housing. I got another Ford 9" from a friend for $50 that I took the brakes and third member off of. I put all new parts on the brakes from Autozone.I got 3.89 gears from the same guy I got the rear from for $128 shipped. I got a 31 spline mini spool and new moly pin for $35 shipped from Ebay. I had a local guy put new bearings and set up the gears in the third member for $230. I assmebled it myself. Here is the shop that I got my rear from of of Ebay. This is axles,brakes and housing for $990+$115 shipping. Save yourself some money and get the brakes and third member from another housing and just buy the housing and axles from this guy. Click here>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Inch-F ... 0187078874
You might have to change length of drive shaft not sure. I ordered a custom length aluminum drive shaft because the Ford 9" was an inch shorter than my 10 bolt. Not sure on your application. I also changed from a turbo 350 to 700r4 so yours could be different.Just have to measure when the rear is in. Regals are nice looking cars should be a nice street machine when done. Good luck!

 

[wolfs1959]

thanks for all the info. I am hopefully going to buy the cutlass tomorow(wife alowing ) the body and interior are imaculate but i think its got a spun rod bearing still not to bad for 1000$ i dont think. although i am still going to try and get it for 800. not to metion i like the paint job its wite with two light blue "race" stripes that line up with the grills. I am actually excited to get working on it. its one of the cleanest cars i have ever bought.

I done some more research on the 9" there's a few other places that also build a "bolt in". I think i am going to check around and see if i can get a better deal on it so i can fit that into my budget.

man i have been working on aircooled VW for way to long. this stuff is CHEAP compared to VW junk. and at the same time in the last ten or so years aftermarket performance parts have goten alot cheaper and more to choose from. anyway cross your fingers. I will post some pics if i get it.

Joe

 

[455OLDSMAN]

You might be able to build up an 8.5 a little cheaper. Goodluck with the car.

 

[wolfs1959]

how well do 8.5's hold up?

also are parts as redily(sp?) available for the 8.5" as the 9" or 8.8" ford?

thanks for the response's to all the ?'s

Joe

 

[whatsup]

how well do 8.5's hold up?

also are parts as redily(sp?) available for the 8.5" as the 9" or 8.8" ford?

thanks for the response's to all the ?'s

Joe

I know people running 9's on 8.5"'s. I just redid one for my car and have about $600 in it. My project is almost finished...see here http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2994
Just got done going down the road you are beginning on...I can prob answer most questions you have. Let me know if I can help!

 

[megaladon6]

the ford 9 is the strongest. the chevy 12 bolt is VERY close and the 8.5 is just behind the 12 bolt. i believe that it does primarily come down to just pinion size. the main reason why people prefer the ford 9 is because you can change gears in half an hour. parts are extremely common for the 8.5--chevy used it on a ton of vehicles. hell, i think my brother has 3 8.5 camaro rears sitting around!