What did you buy for your G-body today? [2024]

New non OEM rear spoiler View attachment 242860
Damn that’s nice. Who did you pick that up from?
Nvm looks like a challenger spoiler.
I had test fit on my cutlass a couple years back but it need a lot of work to clear the cutlass body line
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put a small piece of 1/4 npt pipe in place of a bunch of adapters i had when i scabbed together my oddball creation.
The leftmost tee would have an oil pressure sender if it didn't die, but it's got a 5/16 line with a compression fitting (flare fitting is more annoying to line up) that goes to the rear of the block, and a fitting for the gauge, and the pipe that now takes the place of like 3 adapters i had that goes into the factory oil pressure port.
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Bought a quart of clear binder intercoat urethane for eventual paint project last payday got thicker wheel spacers for close rims and longer dorman wheel studs
 

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Monte Carlo:
  • Threw a vbelt on the alternator on the way back from "Friday Night Flex" on 7/19
    • Didn't pull over in time. No water pump....engine over heated. Lower hose burst. Temp went all the way around....all types of bad noises.
    • changed the belt and the lower radiator hose...car idled find. Took it on the road, twisted belt in a few minutes.
    • Found that the alternator pulley and whatever it spins on were no longer true. Slight wobble.
    • Purchase a new cheap alternator to get me by...still threw a belt.
    • took a laser and found that the crank pulley was too far back. Bought some spacers, installed them and the car worked fine for the Telegraph Cruise this weekend.
  • Car is still running after I turn it off. "Dieseling" is killing me. I've changed the carb, distributor, and alternator. New fuel pump and filter. It also only seems to do it in park with the higher idle. It did it on my Summit Carb and this new Holley DP. This is way above my trouble shooting skillset.
Regal:
  • Ran well this weekend. Since I was on a pulley meltdown over the Monte Carlo, I at least got the right belts on the Regal. Took some string and measured the distance around to make sure the adjustments were right in the middle.
  • I'm not going to mess around with this Olds 350 motor anymore. It's still smoking out of the valve cover gasket, even with a new PCV valve and breather. Maybe I should run the PCV to the carb instead of the intake. I haven't made my mind up on selling the car or swapping motors.

Even with all my complaining, I had a wonderful time at the Telegraph Cruise (I'll post videos later). Thank God the weather was nice because this week is horrible. Dew Points above 70 degrees.
 
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Cars diesel when they still get air and fuel and the chambers are hot enough to ignite it. Try running some water, atf, berryman, etc down the carb, revving as you do it. Then with the last gulp let it choke and die. Let it sit and cool down, then fire it up and give it a good few revs like it owes you money.
 
Purchased a "worked when pulled" bop th350. Picking it up tomorrow. 4 hour round trip. I remember when these were 50 bucks a pop on CL. Now I couldn't find a "worked when pulled" core for less than 200.
 
Just purchased this, so I haven't got it yet, but I've found a UNICORN! It's a 1981 Cutlass A-body Product Description Manual, aka PDM, aka Product Information Manual (PIM). These are commonly referred to as Assembly Manuals. They basically show you HOW the car was supposed to be assembled by Oldsmobile, with engineering part numbers (not always the catalog part number), installation tips, etc. Many of the diagrams are watered down and used in the CSMs, but they don't always have the same detailed information as the PDM has. There are details used in the PDM you can't find elsewhere. This is an excellent resource to help reassemble your ride once you take it apart and then can't remember what goes where and how. It's only applicable to the 81 model year, but since 81-88 Cutlass is pretty consistent in the builds, I'd say it's pretty valuable go-to to help with other years, or get it close. Not all will be the same, but generally, I couldn't be happier. A 1984 or 85 would be better, but I don't even know if they had those. This is the first one I've ever seen for the "newer" G-body body style Olds. I did see a 79 one once.

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Bought more candy paint bought 2 walker glasspacks and clamps got a pack of sanding disketts ( cool"lol) and some high cover black acrylic enamel spay can..., also some lug nuts ect got to get started back on that car.
 

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Just purchased this, so I haven't got it yet, but I've found a UNICORN! It's a 1981 Cutlass A-body Product Description Manual, aka PDM, aka Product Information Manual (PIM). These are commonly referred to as Assembly Manuals. They basically show you HOW the car was supposed to be assembled by Oldsmobile, with engineering part numbers (not always the catalog part number), installation tips, etc. Many of the diagrams are watered down and used in the CSMs, but they don't always have the same detailed information as the PDM has. There are details used in the PDM you can't find elsewhere. This is an excellent resource to help reassemble your ride once you take it apart and then can't remember what goes where and how. It's only applicable to the 81 model year, but since 81-88 Cutlass is pretty consistent in the builds, I'd say it's pretty valuable go-to to help with other years, or get it close. Not all will be the same, but generally, I couldn't be happier. A 1984 or 85 would be better, but I don't even know if they had those. This is the first one I've ever seen for the "newer" G-body body style Olds. I did see a 79 one once.

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Find me a '79 & '81 Chevy versions & we will be working out a deal.
 

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