What should I use...?

[mheath717]

Ok so I have decided to start working on my suspension a little bit. I have started with shocks, springs, sway bar bushings, and end links. Now I'm on to my ball joints and control arm bushings. I popped off my control arms the other day, and removed the factory ball joint and bushings.

My control arms are looking a little old and rusty. My question is how do I go about cleaning them up? And what is the best coating I can use to keep them protected? I used a wire brush on a drill, and cleaned them up a little bit. Should I just use some black spray paint? Then I was thinking maybe some spray can undercoating. I have also read on this site where people have used Por-15. But I'm not exactly sure what it is, or where to purchase it.

Any ideas?

A side question... I can't make my mind up on using Moog bushings or Poly bushings. The poly kit is only $70 and is cheaper than buying Moog. The car is a driver, and I never race or anything like that. Which way should I go?

Thanks

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

the por-15 is a durable paint kit. think of it like a bedliner but a lot better. my brother is painting his engine compartment with it.

if its a daily driver go with what ever you want.

 

[pontiacgp]

is there any place around you that does sandblasting?...it shouldn't be that expensive and then you will have a nice surface to paint them with a good paint. Also when your changing the bushings make sure the shaft isn't corroded where the bushings sit or the bushings won't last very long...something I learned from experience...

 

[RITTER]

I know we offer the POR-15 at our stores but I am honestly not sure if it is offered nationwide at NAPA. We are an independent store, so we actually carry some stuff that NAPA doesn't normally carry.

Also, just for your reference, NAPA chassis parts are made by MOOG :wink:

 

[mheath717]

Also, just for your reference, NAPA chassis parts are made by MOOG :wink:

Well I just had a guy I work with give me all four moog ball joints for free the other day. So I'm set on those. They came from Car Quest, but say Moog on the side of the box. And say Moog Problem Solver on the bottom of the lowers. 🙂

 

[mheath717]

is there any place around you that does sandblasting?...it shouldn't be that expensive and then you will have a nice surface to paint them with a good paint. Also when your changing the bushings make sure the shaft isn't corroded where the bushings sit or the bushings won't last very long...something I learned from experience...

Well I live in a small town in the middle of the Florida Panhandle. We have a total of about five shops in our town. Three of which are just tire places that do a little work on the side. So the one shop that has a machine shop and sandblasters, is very expensive. But I will give them a call just to see what kind of prices they are talking about.

 

[pontiacgp]

I have used this method to remove rust and it does work...I would never think it would but I tried it just to see if it does and I was surprised...

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/ ... usting.htm

 

[Blake442]

Go with the Moog bushings.

You'll be a lot happier, and more comfortable, with rubber bushings for a street car over poly bushings....

 

[deathproof]

When i did my rear end, I just wire brushed the living hell out of it. Then two coats of rustoleum red oxide primer and two coats of satin black. It's holding up great, even with a jack on the pumpkin now and then.

 

[gp02a0083]

I have used this method to remove rust and it does work...I would never think it would but I tried it just to see if it does and I was surprised...

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/ ... usting.htm

as a electro-chemical chemist , i understand the process that they are using, when rust (aka iron oxide, iron III oxide) forms pure iron gives up an electron pair and readily bonds with oxygen. To "remove" the oxide , with a electrolyte solution , you are providing a "pathway" for ion / electron exchange. The gas bubbles formed are hydrogen gas(H2) and oxygen (O2). in this case you are performing the opposite of electroplating, so the electrolyte in this case would have a basic PH, something like sodium bicarbonate would work well and isn't as harmful if you get it on your skin like lye ( it will cause chemical burns). A good power supply source will help too with a high potential ( voltage) rating , you can monitor the effectiveness of the electrolyte by the current.