It's in the intake. And at the time, the mixture in the rad was 50% tap water, and then 50% premixed 50/50 coolant and water. A few days prior I pitched a fan belt (first time) due to a pulley misalignment and it knocked the lower rad hose off. Was far from home and didn't have any cash on my to buy coolant. Just borrowed a garden hose filled it up and went on my way. I'm fairly confident they're correct.
welp it was burbling May not be exact on the amount of water vs coolant, but I know there was way more water than coolant due to the lower hose getting knocked off. I heard it burbling over the engine. Gauge read 230+ when I got out to check it.with that mixture the boiling point at 15 psi is still close to 260°
160 is way too cold. Ideally you want the engine operating around 200 to 210 degrees. Running a engine too cold will increase wear. Ford figured out back in the 60s that a 195 t-stat increases engine life at least by 30%.
At the time, tap water is all i had on the side of the road. It's all 50/50 mix now.I used to get decades of service from a thermostat. I don't know why but the current available thermostats suck. I test them all in a pot of boiling water and many open at the right temp but take too long to close. That causes cold running. And yet when once in the motor- they don't work right at all. I can't figure out why. I even drill a tiny hole in every stat so air can vent when I fill with coolant. I run a 160* in summer because I use the AC. Even with an aluminum radiator it gets too hot in slow traffic without good airflow. The 160* works well in that situation. But in winter I like a 195* because a station wagon has a LOT of space to heat especially the rear glass. A 180* is OK for Spring and Fall, but in the dead of Winter a 195* is better. I hope you are using only a distilled water/coolant mixture with that aluminum radiator. Tap water will cause electrolysis between the different metals.
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