What to do with my rear end

Status
Not open for further replies.

Chevyman85

G-Body Guru
Oct 25, 2006
594
0
0
Bonney Lake, WA
383Camino said:
I'm a believer in my Lakewood no hop bars. I have all four stock control arms as well.

I used the Lakewood trac bars on my Elco. I switched the open diff. in my 7.5in. 10 Bolt rearend out for a Eaton Posi unit. It cost about $350 for the unit, and about 150 for the bars. Just using stock suspension and coil springs wheel hop became a serious problem. Heres a link to a set of lift bars on Jegs.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...atalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=91161
I hope this helps you out
 

ONE EYE

Greasemonkey
Aug 24, 2006
133
0
0
in front of the computer...
the edelbrock arms are (not positive but am pretty close) 1"longer on top and 3/4" shorter on bottom so if you made your arms then you wouldnt need the no hop bars.
what i did on my 81 elky is
-boxed all 4 control arms
-no hop bars
-air bag with 15-17lbs in right rear
-sportsman pro's
-sensatrac shocks

with the 4 speed and 7.625 3.73 posi i launched at 1500-2000
at 1500 i popped two drivers side axles and found out i twisted and tore the frame on both sides and bent the passenger side lower control arm mount

so i plated the inside and outside of both rails, and the lower control arm mounts on both sides, and installed an 8.5 (it is 3"s wider than a G body rear and the 10" rims with 28/10/15" sportsman pro's stick out a little but hey, you gotta do what you gotta do. i also put the lakewood traction action bars on (they came with the 8.5)

i launched at 4-5000rpm last time i had it at the track and i did about 7 nitrous launches and the rear didnt break. i have yet to put it on the hoist to see what other damage i did but so far its all good.
 

mrapii

Greasemonkey
Jan 5, 2006
198
0
0
Waipahu, HI
The 8.5" 10-bolt from Buick T-Types/GNs and Olds Hursts/442s is a direct bolt in. It is exactly the same width as the 7.5" and the only mod needed is to shorten the driveshaft by 1".
 

383Camino

Master Mechanic
Mar 1, 2006
265
1
18
South Dakota
The No-Hop bars move the rear mounting point of the upper bar up, causing the bar itself to point down. This moves the instant center back, to about the middle of the car at the dashboard. (Instant center (IC) is where your upper and lower control arms would meet if exended out that far; stock the IC is about 4 feet infront of the car). This all is a bunch of physics I barely understand. Also, they recomend the lower control arm be parallel to the ground.
 

ONE EYE

Greasemonkey
Aug 24, 2006
133
0
0
in front of the computer...
the edelbrock arms move the pinion angle down, acting the same as the no hop bars, so they are not needed. if you used the aftermarket control arms and no hop bars you would have way too much pinion angle and it would hit way too hard. and theres NO wrote off/parted out GNs around here so i had to make do. lol
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor