Where to start? First things first.

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Ok so I found the tps wire and I see its connected to a little clip that slides on the tps. It was unplugged and really it didnt do anything but now show me the choke and oil light on in the dashboard. Ya'll think I should keep it connected? Why they had it disconnected I dont know why anyone know? Is there a reason? Anyhow, I tried the opening the butterfly flap when the car was running and all it did was bog it down and shut the car off. So that idea is out the door. Maybe it wasn't warmed up real good I dunno but it seems pointless. I did go and buy some carb cleaner and soaked the sh*t out of the carb and worked all the joints and levers to get them freed up. Tomorrow I will drive it around and hopefully I can get it to accelerate good enough to drive with traffic. I do see that the choke moves slowly up after I have started it. So I assume its working correctly? Anyone think I should be doing any more of adjustments in the carb? It idles decent but you can hear it sort of drownding out when at WOT but not cutting off.

I checked my sparkplugs carefully today and noticed that only the driverside 3 sparkplugs are the only ones covered in oil or fuel. The passenger side 3 cylinders look fine.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Car runs good now. Setting the timing was a PITA! It was a cat and mouse game. If I turned the distributer one way, the way I needed to get to the scale It would retard the timing so I went the other way and same thing. So It really aint even timed properly because its dam near at the bottom of the pulley. It runs very rich but it has more power than it did. Im assuming the timing if done right will help a bunch but I spent 4 hrs trying to do the timing going back and forth.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

unplugging the TPS won't stop fuel flow, it's dependant on air flow. on EFI it won't inject so there's no fuel. you can't apply a modern nissan procedure to an old gm.

I wasn't. Nissan says nothing about disconnecting the TPS. It says to pull the fuel pump fuse and run it till it dies to kill fuel pressure. Holding the throttle open while cranking it is part of their procedure, but it makes sense for any engine so that you remove airflow as a factor in testing cranking compression. Without holding the throttle open, I have noticed much more variation in readings when doing tests in both carbureted and EFI engines. I still stand by disconnecting the TPS or the MC solenoid while performing this test so that there is no chance of adding excessive amounts of fuel while testing all 6 cylinders. It may make no real difference, but better safe than sorry.

Anyhow, I took the time to look it up in my 1985 Olds FSM and here is what it says:

"When checking cylinder compression, the throttle and choke should be open, all spark plugs removed and the battery at or near a full charge. The lowest reading cylinder should be not less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder should be less than 100 psi." It also says to disconnect the BAT wire from the HEI, and that you should do 4 "puffs" per cylinder.