Where to start? First things first.

[Stoopud]

I dont know. When mine was broke it just stayed closed because it was not opening, it kinda just flopped around. Look at the lincage going to the choke pull down and see if it is bound. Try disconnecting the wire and see if it helps. See if you can turn the pull-off sometimes you can get them to slip against the rivits and can back it out a little.

Good luck

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

You keep mentioning this wire and I think I know what your talking about but bro theres all kind of freakin sh*t cut. Afew wires here, a few wires there. You see the big *ss bolt in the hose in one of the pics I posted! Im still trying to track down these buggers but sh*t I can only do so much til the weekend. I have it stored in a storage for now until I move into a house and shave the trunk and handle locks. I see how people love to steal a gbody look where Im at! I need to find a way to attach my bumper fillers because my car is rare with them on in atlanta people all ready planning!

 

[Stoopud]

If there are a bunch of wires cut, that may be your problem. Look for the choke pull-off I described. Disconnect the wire to it and run it to ignition hot in the fuse box (or to the battery temprarly if necessary). See if the choke works. Someone may have cut the wire and you are just not getting power.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

I dont know. When mine was broke it just stayed closed because it was not opening, it kinda just flopped around. Look at the lincage going to the choke pull down and see if it is bound. Try disconnecting the wire and see if it helps. See if you can turn the pull-off sometimes you can get them to slip against the rivits and can back it out a little.

Good luck

Hey when you say it was staying closed would it still fire up when starting it. Just run like hell when driving?

 

[Stoopud]

yep. At this point I am 90% sure your problem is choke related.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Is this choke pull off suppose to be adjusting my butterfly flap when needed to function correctly? Or something else related to the carb? So like if its wired up right and working properly its going to slowly like you say slowly close and open while your driving giving you the air you need?

Yea im gettin confident too I hoope this works! If it does I have some good pics for ya'll of the LoLo 😛

 

[Stoopud]

yeah, the pull-off has a spring inside and as it gets warmer it contracts and pulls the rod, as the rod is pulled the choke opens. On an electric choke it is that pod on the side of the carb. There are also heat sink type, which have the same spring but are on the manifold and dont need power (mostly Mopar I think), and there are hot air set-ups, but I really don't know sh*t about those (makes me think they are ford)

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

yeah, the pull-off has a spring inside and as it gets warmer it contracts and pulls the rod, as the rod is pulled the choke opens. On an electric choke it is that pod on the side of the carb. There are also heat sink type, which have the same spring but are on the manifold and dont need power (mostly Mopar I think), and there are hot air set-ups, but I really don't know sh*t about those (makes me think they are ford)

So first I need to rig it to stay open so I can see if it runs right while driving right?And if it does good then I know the whole wire to the carb adjustment thing is not working and telling it what to do. So then I straight wire it into a power source and see if it does it on its own? And if it does then get a new one. If it dont maybe get a meter and ohm? Or replace? Oh nevermind I had too many beers and getting too excited. 1 step at a timeeeeeeeee

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

unplug the TPS sensor (to keep it from flooding the engine) and the coil power wire.
would expect the spec to be around 140-160psi, but it may be lower since it is a low compression engine.

it's a carb not an EFI, unplugging th TPS won't do a thing. i'd hope for 100+psi but no matter what he gets it won't tell him what's wrong unless he's experienced at reading a compression tester.
tune the carb and timing so that you have eliminated one variable. (sometimes gas on a plug breaks down from the heat and gets sludgy--it then looks like oil) if they still get fouled after that then it's rings or valve seals. it doesn't cost money to tune!!!! the engine needs to run as well as possible before you can diagnose anything. otherwise you don't know whats causing what.
also: does your oil smell like fuel at all?

Well, you have never broken a Electronic Rochester TPS then... I did once and the computer read it as WOT. The MC solenoid stayed wide open and hydrolocked the 305 the E4ME Quadrajet was on! I had to pull the plugs and run the starter to pump all of the gas out of the engine. I had broken the plunger of the TPS when I was reinstalling the airhorn, thus causing the problem. The grass between the sidewalk and road in front of my parents house where we pumped out all of the gas refused to grow there for about 3 years afterwards, so it was quite a lot of gas.

 

[megaladon6]

unplugging the TPS won't stop fuel flow, it's dependant on air flow. on EFI it won't inject so there's no fuel. you can't apply a modern nissan procedure to an old gm.