Which one ??

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Depends on your preferences and goals really.

Some people complain about the slightly harsher ride and noise of the poly mounts.

Squeaky noise, if it really really bothered you, I'd think could be avoided by some extra sound deadening or turning up the radio.

If you do poly you probably never do it again.

For what I use my gbodies for personally, I go rubber. But then again, mine are more for cruising. When I want top handling/cornering I break out the firebird or a mustang.
 
Depends on your preferences and goals really.

Some people complain about the slightly harsher ride and noise of the poly mounts.

Squeaky noise, if it really really bothered you, I'd think could be avoided by some extra sound deadening or turning up the radio.

If you do poly you probably never do it again.

For what I use my gbodies for personally, I go rubber. But then again, mine are more for cruising. When I want top handling/cornering I break out the firebird or a mustang.
I totally agree. I had it in my head that I was going to order rubber mounts, and then found the Prothane kit cheaper than than the rubber kit. I have Energy poly mounts on a v8 s10 truck I have, and am happy with them. This car is a cruiser, so still undecided.
 
I boxed the frame, beefed up the factory welds on the frame and added braces so the frame was strong enough without the body bolted to it. I never heard any squeaks from the poly bushings and from what I read before I installed the poly bushings is there isn't that much of a difference between new rubber bushings and the poly when the body bolts are torqued. The rubber bushing compress alot more than the poly bushings so the compressed rubber doesn't give too much. The advantage of the poly is it lasts longer and supposed to give a firmer ride. The difference between the old worn out bushings and new rubber or poly will give you a firmer ride so you can't compair the old bushing to what you install.
 
Luckily for my Southern car, all the body bolts came out with a 3/8" hand ratchet.

My car is Northern and all the body bolts came right out, through the passenger side #2 frame mount required a weld in frame repair washer. Very common for the passenger #2 to rot out because the HVAC drains rain water on it.
 
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You know I always lean toward stock stuff. But not this time. The car isn't going to be stock, really, and poly mounts are totally awesome in the fact of their longevity if nothing else. Should have done that from the factory, IMO.

Also, IMO, if you go poly on the mounts, go poly on the suspension points, too. Again, it's how I see it. Which always isn't that great I guess.

If the goal is just to be sneaky and mimic stock look, get black poly throughout to blend. If you want to be a bit loud, then go with the other colors. The great thing about all this, you have a choice.
 
The Prothanes will make the body sit higher on the chassis and will not squish down or settle.

But you can also trim them to sit the body on the chassis the way you want
 
I have black prothane poly mounts on my Cutlass. It made the car considerably stiffer, but also raised the body some due to the stickers being so worn out and compressed.
This is why I've got the NOS GM rubber mounts ready to go throughout. Because I'm worried my car might sit high up like a 4-wheeler on polys where I need side steps to assist me getting in and out of it. 🤣 After I'm dead, I'll let the next owner worry about the eventual degradation of the new stock mounts. 😛
 
I went with poly mounts for my car. A car even with poly mounts will still ride smoother than a car with bad rubber mounts. Also rubber mounts contain a molded in sheetmetal reinforcing insert. These inserts rust out inside the bushing leaving it hollow, and you can't tell until you remove the bushing. Worse yet, when the insets rust out, they often rust out the mount hole in the frame too.

However, for suspenison bushings I suggest OEM rubber bushings as poly bushings have binding issues. Especially in 4 link rear suspension setups like in our cars. 4 links require deflection to operate bind free.
 
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