Why So Many Different Coolants?

[joesregalproject]

That works. If your water is clean, there shouldn't be TOO much issue with residual water. We have well water which is really clean and remarkably is clean as all get out. The only thing that's f-d up about it is it's slightly acidic at around 6.17 pH on the meter. But with the slightly higher pH of the antifreeze, I'm not too worried about it. Last time on the Focus I got a 7.30 final pH after the test drive and cooldown, so I felt ok with it. I send off well samples to the lab every couple of years and the TDS is super low. We have an undersink RO unit for drinking water with a mineral final filter (to raise pH) that boosts the pH to around 7.4 and I'm good with that. I ran a tap off to the ice maker and fridge water so that water is in good shape too.

I'll flush with filtered well-water until it's clear, drain what I can, and add about 1 quart of straight concentrate, followed by my 50-50 mix with distilled water. I check with the antifreeze tester anyway, and top off with the 50-50 as needed. Seems to work ok and I'm good to go here in the south. I'm always in the -20F freeze protection or better, so if it ever gets that cold here, winter can have it.

Sounds like a solid procedure. I'd wager 90 percent of shops and dealerships do coolant changes with whatever comes out of the hose, so I don't think it's worth overthinking.

I looked at the last report from our city water authority and the hardness was 112 ppm. I hear people talk about how extremely hard the water is here, but that's not much at all.

 

[69hurstolds]

I looked at the last report from our city water authority and the hardness was 112 ppm. I hear people talk about how extremely hard the water is here, but that's not much at all.

Yep. Hose works. IIRC, some of the new cars' owner's manuals simply say "clean water" nothing more.

I just checked our tap water and the TDS was 13 ppm and pH of 6.27. Almost nothing. The last report said 11 ppm. I'd say that's good.

 

[ssn696]

This is another 'stickie' candidate.

 

[64nailhead]

Sounds like a solid procedure. I'd wager 90 percent of shops and dealerships do coolant changes with whatever comes out of the hose, so I don't think it's worth overthinking.

I looked at the last report from our city water authority and the hardness was 112 ppm. I hear people talk about how extremely hard the water is here, but that's not much at all.

Using the non OEM coolant that the truck was built with isn't a deal breaker 90% of the time. Most all of the coolant is an Extended LIfe Coolant (ELC). The color means nothing, repeat, absolutely nothing. It's dye that coolant manufacturer puts into the coolant. Yellow, red, purple, orange, green coolants can be any type. The IAT, NOAT, OAT, etc, are important, but not overly important. Cummins has sells a coolant that is compatible with all of those expect one (which one is slipping me presently.)

The largest issues that causes damage is mixing an ELC, whether it is IAT, NOAT, OAT,etc., with an SCA formulated coolant. One is an acid and the other is a base. When mixed you have the equivalent of water that doesn't freeze in your cooling system AND it offers ZERO corrosion protection. Also, the need release water filters, Penray being the most popular, that are designed for SCA filled cooling systems - they have layers of pellets in them that will reinvigorate your SCA coolant. Unfortunately, many trucks are built with these filters and whether it has a standard coolant filter or an need release filter, either can be spun on - this creates really bad juju. Counter bore and liner erosion is the worst. I've been the bearer of bad news to a customer that he needs an overhaul and/or block on a low mileage unit because the coolant maintenance wasn't performed correctly and it's damaged expensive components.

In the truck world, it is rare for any truck to go 2 years without it dumping all of its coolant on the ground or into the atmosphere. And leaks usually get topped off with whatever a truckstop or convenience store has available. The easiest solution is to use a single type, at our dealership we use Cummins Fleetrite Extended Life and perform a complete refill of the system. And from a customer financial standpoint, using the recommended/initial coolant from the OEM is 50-100% more expensive.

Almost forgot - don't use anything glycol based - the old green stuff stand by. If you have it in a car presently, then drain it, flush the system with water and by 2 gallons of concentrate ELC.

My $.02. What do you use in your chainsaws 🙂

 

[86LK]

Using the non OEM coolant that the truck was built with isn't a deal breaker 90% of the time. Most all of the coolant is an Extended LIfe Coolant (ELC). The color means nothing, repeat, absolutely nothing. It's dye that coolant manufacturer puts into the coolant. Yellow, red, purple, orange, green coolants can be any type. The IAT, NOAT, OAT, etc, are important, but not overly important. Cummins has sells a coolant that is compatible with all of those expect one (which one is slipping me presently.)

The largest issues that causes damage is mixing an ELC, whether it is IAT, NOAT, OAT,etc., with an SCA formulated coolant. One is an acid and the other is a base. When mixed you have the equivalent of water that doesn't freeze in your cooling system AND it offers ZERO corrosion protection. Also, the need release water filters, Penray being the most popular, that are designed for SCA filled cooling systems - they have layers of pellets in them that will reinvigorate your SCA coolant. Unfortunately, many trucks are built with these filters and whether it has a standard coolant filter or an need release filter, either can be spun on - this creates really bad juju. Counter bore and liner erosion is the worst. I've been the bearer of bad news to a customer that he needs an overhaul and/or block on a low mileage unit because the coolant maintenance wasn't performed correctly and it's damaged expensive components.

In the truck world, it is rare for any truck to go 2 years without it dumping all of its coolant on the ground or into the atmosphere. And leaks usually get topped off with whatever a truckstop or convenience store has available. The easiest solution is to use a single type, at our dealership we use Cummins Fleetrite Extended Life and perform a complete refill of the system. And from a customer financial standpoint, using the recommended/initial coolant from the OEM is 50-100% more expensive.

Almost forgot - don't use anything glycol based - the old green stuff stand by. If you have it in a car presently, then drain it, flush the system with water and by 2 gallons of concentrate ELC.

My $.02. What do you use in your chainsaws 🙂

are the original green stuff and the dexcool considered ELC or SCA? I've seen the videos of what happens when you mix those two together

 

[64nailhead]

are the original green stuff and the dexcool considered ELC or SCA? I've seen the videos of what happens when you mix those two together

Dexcool is an ELC. But because it's so widely used, it's not difficult to find. The old school green stuff is neither.

 

[86LK]

Dexcool is an ELC. But because it's so widely used, it's not difficult to find. The old school green stuff is neither.

right, I stock the stuff every Wed night and see it. we always tell the customers go with the recommended 'Color' (which would be OEM as noted on the front of the jug) unless you know for a fact that a previous owner changed it out to something else.

What Happens when You Mix Coolants - Valvoline™ Global Europe - EN

When you are a vehicle owner, you don’t always have all the necessary maintenance products at hand. Sometimes, you might have one coolant in your car and one in your garage. If you are not in the mood to go to a shop, it is possible to start wondering what would happen if you just mixed...

www.valvolineglobal.com

 

[64nailhead]

right, I stock the stuff every Wed night and see it. we always tell the customers go with the recommended 'Color' (which would be OEM as noted on the front of the jug) unless you know for a fact that a previous owner changed it out to something else.

What Happens when You Mix Coolants - Valvoline™ Global Europe - EN

When you are a vehicle owner, you don’t always have all the necessary maintenance products at hand. Sometimes, you might have one coolant in your car and one in your garage. If you are not in the mood to go to a shop, it is possible to start wondering what would happen if you just mixed...

www.valvolineglobal.com

Good article with similar info to what has been mentioned. I like how coolant manufacturers recommend a coolant based on it's cooling capabilities. The most effective liquid for engine cooling is water. But unfortunately it's not the best substance for your system

Of course, I run water with two container of Water Wetter in my car once ambient temps aren't going to be below 30 degrees - an NHRA track clean up thing. Coolant is hard to clean of the track. Most tracks won't let you run if they find out you have anything other than water in your cooling system.


Also, I've always wondered about the effects on the environment of coolant, especially when t is vaporized in the exhaust of trucks. I'm shocked that the EPA hasn't thrown down on it yet.

 

[olds307 and 403]

are the original green stuff and the dexcool considered ELC or SCA? I've seen the videos of what happens when you mix those two together

I've seen it first hand, anyone want some modeling clay? I'm not sure what the end game is, lifetime coolant?

 

[joesregalproject]

Just want to clarify.

The old green stuff, that everything used prior to 1995 or so, was an IAT coolant. Expected life of about 2 years, 30k miles.

Dexcool, the orange stuff that GM has been using since the mid 90s and Ford (Ford Orange) used from 2011ish-2019, and Chrysler (Chrysler Purple) from 2013+ is an OAT and supposedly lasts much longer.

Motorcraft Gold/Zerex G05/Mopar Red are all the same and are a HOAT coolant.

The above 3 types of coolant are NOT compatible with each other and should not be mixed.

The new Motorcraft Yellow in Fords from 2019-up is a P-OAT coolant and is also used in certain Asian vehicles.