Worn Clutch Z Bar

[GuysMonteSS]

The old Doug Nash 4+1 started getting hard to shift last year and at first I thought it was the clutch.
I thought about it all winter and realised that I didnt want to pull the transmission until I checked into it further.
So I looked at excess play in the clutch linkage to start.The holes in the Z Bar for the clutch pedal and clutch fork pushrods were showing signs of wear.
I took the Z Bar out and took it and both pushrods to my favorite machine shop for Jim George to have a look at.
He decided on a course of action to fix my problem. Jim thought that a heim joint on the clutch fork pushrod would be a good idea,and I just happened to have one as they are what I use as sway bar endlinks.
Jim made a new clutch fork pushrod from some Grade 8 fine thread rod,with the heim joint on one end and a 1/2 inch ball bearing silver soldered on the other end.The ball bearing is there to prevent the pushrod from wearing a hole in the fork where it seats.
On the pedal end he made a bushing and spot welded it so it cant come out.
All this removed the excess play,which was really bad.
I got it back together yesterday and went for a short drive and so far it is shifting much better,although a slight adjustment is needed.
I also hooked up a return spring to the clutch fork,as it was just MacGyvered from before I bought it.
I had read about someone using a hose clamp on a header tube as a secure point.I got a universal return spring and a hose clamp and now I have a return spring hooked up.The fork had a hole on the topside which was in the wrong location so I drilled a new hole on the bottom for it.
Heres some pictures.
The first two show the way too much play.

Now here it is all fixed up

Here it is installed.

Guy

 

[gnvair]

Speed Direct makes a kit with him jointed rods. It was one of the first things I did to mine and probably the best upgrade for the linkage.

 

[GuysMonteSS]

Speed Direct makes a kit with him jointed rods. It was one of the first things I did to mine and probably the best upgrade for the linkage.

I didnt know about them.
But it is expensive,especially by the time it gets shipped to Canada.
Probably well over $ 200.00 in Canadian dollars.
Jim charged me $ 30.00.
The heim joint is app 25.00 $ and 5.00 $ for the spring,= $ 60.00
Guy

 

[gnvair]

I didnt know about them.
But it is expensive,especially by the time it gets shipped to Canada.
Probably well over $ 200.00 in Canadian dollars.
Jim charged me $ 30.00.
The heim joint is app 25.00 $ and 5.00 $ for the spring,= $ 60.00
Guy

The difference is the Speed Direct rods have a heim joint at all 3 positions that wear (clutch pedal, top of z bar and bottom of z bar).

 

[pagrunt]

Both sets of my Z-bars & clutch pedals have worn holes & have been looking for someone to machine bushing & drill out the worn holes but I'm going to have to look into the Speed Direct rods. As for the return spring, there was never a bracket that mounted the sping to the frame. It just hooks to an opening on the frame rail. But with clearance issues with some headers you would have to make something. I never had an issue with my spring with the Heddmans I was using.

 

[Michael Watts]

I upgraded my 1979 Z-28 Camaro worn linkage with Heim joints a Hurst metal shifter bushings . And made my own spring mounting bracket ,That could also apply to g bodies as well. I was always wondering if a Corvette clutch fork might work for other cars as well.

 

[GuysMonteSS]

Well so far everything is working smoothly,like I had hoped it would.
The wife and I are going for a 5-6 hour drive on Monday.
This will be a mix of highway and back roads,so it should be a good test of how it's going to work.
I've got my fingers crossed for a successful trip 👍
I will keep you updated at that time.
Guy

 

[Bonnewagon]

Speed Direct makes a kit with him jointed rods.

I used that part too. MUCH better. But you managed to do the same thing so- Kudos. I use three springs. One on the lower Z-bar, hooked to a bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold bolt. One between the clutch fork and Z-bar, holding them tight together. One up under the dash pulling the clutch pedal back to the dash. I want NO clutch contact when released.

 

[GuysMonteSS]

I used that part too. MUCH better. But you managed to do the same thing so- Kudos. I use three springs. One on the lower Z-bar, hooked to a bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold bolt. One between the clutch fork and Z-bar, holding them tight together. One up under the dash pulling the clutch pedal back to the dash. I want NO clutch contact when released.

I never thought of doing all that.
Next time I have the Monte jacked up I will see if I can put an extra spring or two on.
Guy

 

[GuysMonteSS]

I used that part too. MUCH better. But you managed to do the same thing so- Kudos. I use three springs. One on the lower Z-bar, hooked to a bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold bolt. One between the clutch fork and Z-bar, holding them tight together. One up under the dash pulling the clutch pedal back to the dash. I want NO clutch contact when released.

Ok,I am in the process of adding another spring.
This one will go on the clutch pedal and attach up to the firewall.
I dont know how your pedal feels,but mine has unwanted "slop" in it,and it sits way too high.
You gotta lift your knee almost to your chest to get your foot on the clutch pedal,LOL(well,that might be a bit of an exaggeration)
This way it will take that slop out of the clutch without interfering with the clutch operation. At least I hope so.
I'll finish this project tomorrow...
Guy