Worn Clutch Z Bar

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We went for our drive today,and everything worked real good until we were almost home.
While slowing down and downshifting for construction,the clutch pedal went hard to the floor.
I was able to drive home using the starter and starting in gear a couple of times.
The bracket that goes from the clutch pedal pushrod to the Z Bar broke off at the weld..
Not too big a problem,my buddy Mark is going to give me a hand to fix it up tomorrow.

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Guy
 
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OUCH! But that is common especially if you use a heavy effort clutch like a RAM Borg & Beck style. I normally reinforce the weld with more weld, then I run a big washer down the Z-bar tube to rest up against the arm. Then that gets welded to the arm and all around the tube too. Now you have 360° of strength and it won't break again. If the Z-bar doesn't look fixable they are available- just make it stronger before you use it. Here is an old pic from before when I tried changing the geometry at the lower arm. I later did it at the top arm.
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FINALLY!! An answer to my long running question of on how to address the return springs for the clutch throwout arm. Think what I will do with the lower one, like suggested, is to clamp it to a header pipe. I can make a "u" shaped tab to fit under the clamp and give it ears with holes drilled in them to accept the spring. Had not considered drilling the arm itself to anchor the spring at the other end.

As for the spring located under the dash, where did you locate the attaching points?

Nick
 
Ouch! Not sure if I posted pics of my own solution to that somewhere but elected to use angle iron that was welded in at an angle to create a triangulated configuration as shown in the picture below.
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Not the best angle to see how it all came together but should do trick. What prompted me to go this way was having to grind away a lot of the existing OEM welds because they were pinholed and porous. Once I had them rewelded, and after some discussion here, I went the extra step and dreamed up this. This Z-Bar is the one currently resident in my 85 Monte SS.

Nick
 
As for the spring located under the dash, where did you locate the attaching points?
There is a bracket up under there that the steering column bolts to. I just used an already provided hole for one spring end. It does have to navigate around a ton of wiring and it is hard to get it located with all the junk under there. The other end is hooked to the pedal arm itself. Sometimes I hear the spring rub against something but usually it's quiet. Being a long reach from the pedal to the bracket I think I used an old screen door spring.
 
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OH OH tell me about your Doug Nash setup😎 Is it a drag race setup? face plated? Hows it shift? I have one I intend to use on the street some.
 
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I got it fixed up yesterday with the help of my friend Mark.
I tacked it in place then ground off the old weld and cleaned it up good.Then Mark welded it in place.
He is pretty good at welding and did a real nice job.I dont think it will break again,and if it does we will reinforce it as suggested.
Guy
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OH OH tell me about your Doug Nash setup😎 Is it a drag race setup? face plated? Hows it shift? I have one I intend to use on the street some.

Mine isnt the race version,just the street model.
It uses the common 3.28:1 first gear and full synchro's.
A few years ago I did send most of the gears and both shafts for cryogenic treatment to strengthen it.This is supposed to increase the strength by up to 30 % and it is working good so far.
I also had my transmission shop watch this 2 part video on how to blueprint the Doug Nash and it also shows some better parts that are available.
All the suggestions and better parts were used.
It shifts great,especially now that I have,(hopefully),the Z Bar sorted out.
The Hurst inline shifter isnt exactly built for good downshifting,but once you get used to it,it works pretty good.
Even though its not an OD trans,with the 3.00:1 rear gears it works pretty good.Lots of bottom end grunt,and cruises decently on the highway.
Guy
 
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