WTF did I do?!

[Doober]

Yeah, I've read stock HEI components don't have a lot of oomph above 6k.

 

[IhaveNoPantsOn]

Yeah...I'm starting to think it probably is the module. Before I took the car off the road for this past year, it would knock like an SOB whenever I floored it. When I changed the plugs recently, it looks like the old ones were a much higher heat range then what I replaced them with. Even with the hotter plugs, shouldn't the ECM prevent knocking? That would mean it probably is going bad, right?

 

[pontiacgp]

Yeah, I've read stock HEI components don't have a lot of oomph above 6k.

I have a distributor out of ZZ4 engine and it's supposed to have a modified curve for a performance and performance parts like the module and coil. I thought that it was just regular hype until I thought the module was acting up. I replaced it with an Accel module but that only lasted a day before that overheated. Once it cooled the engine fired back up. I replaced the Accel from the spare for our race car and that lasted about 15 minutes. I put the original one back in and the car ran and the module never quit. I found the problem to be the coil that was overheating the modules. I'm still trying to find the part number of the module from the ZZ4 distributor since it beat out the Accel which was supposed to be a heavy duty performance module....

 

[IhaveNoPantsOn]

...would having a 'performance' coil (MSD Blaster), and cheap-o everything else cause a problem?

 

[pontiacgp]

...would having a 'performance' coil (MSD Blaster), and cheap-o everything else cause a problem?

MSD is now made in china junk. I have a Moroso coil in mine which is made in the USA

if your going to increase the coil output you'll need to upgrade the rest to gain the advantage of the coil's ability to produce a longer duration spark. I'm running Moroso Blue Max Spiral Core Sleeved spark plug wire which we run on all our race cars. We tested the wires against a few of the top brands and they easily beat them all

 

[IhaveNoPantsOn]

It's a longshot but remove the dist cap and check the rotor. Something similiar happened to me once, and it turned out the contact on the rotor somehow became loose made a pop sound (misfire) and then engine stalled. It started right back up but eventually happened again--with more pops.

It did exactly that a couple days ago...while trying to pass someone on the highway. There's nothing better than going to pass someone on the left, with traffic coming up behind you, than to suddenly stall out. I figured 'Oh, hey, just throw it in N and restart it.' Didn't happen. I managed to get back into the right lane and over into the breakdown lane. Got it started again, and when I went to pull back out, pop, pop, pop. Didn't stall, but barely ran. Luckily I was only a couple hundred yards from my exit, and kinda just coasted the rest of the way. To be safe, as soon as I get a chance, I am replacing the cap and rotor (need to be done anyways) plug wires, and module. I really hope it solves my problems.

BTW, Recently found my digital camera, so I should have a lot more pics of the GP in my album soon.