Front brake fade - need advice

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gdouaire

G-Body Guru
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Aug 7, 2013
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Québec City, Québec CANADA
So I have replaced the master cylinder, the brake booster, the front calipers, the proportioning valve and the brake lines on the Cutlass a while ago. I did not drive it since then, because lots of stuff have also been happening on the car. Testing in the driveway on a few meters, I was able to lock up the front brakes and that seemed to be sufficient.

* Brake booster, master cylinder : B body type (Caprice 1989).
* Front calipers : oversized, 2.75" cylinders, semi-ceramic pads
* Proportioning valve: adjustable, MBM PVC-B

That setup ( adj. prop valve) is required because I want to use rear disk brakes a bit later on.

Now that I want to get the car back on the road, I see that the car will brake properly for a few street corners, I can even lock up the brakes the front wheels, but then, the front brakes progressively fade and appear to be mostly "gone" after a couple of more stops. The car will slow down and come to a stop, but no more locking up even if I pump the pedal.

Prop valve is fully opened for the rear brakes. When fading occurs, if I shut the rear brakes using the knob on the prop valve, I get NO stopping power, which leads me to conclude that it's the front brakes that are completely fading.

I bled the front brakes over and over by gravity. There's no leak on any of the fittings.

Wassup? Bad prop valve bought on eBay?
 
what kind of pads are you using and did you break them in properly? What residual valves are in the proportional valve?
 
pontiacgp said:
what kind of pads are you using and did you break them in properly? What residual valves are in the proportional valve?

Pads are ceramic. Could a dozen stops ruin them and create the symptoms I experience?

No documentation on what's in the prop valve in terms of residual valve.
 
CWPottenger said:
It sounds like you have an air pocket or a sticking prop valve

Sounds like that... looks like the prop valve "seals off" thr front circuit for no reason... since the brakes have been gravity-bled to death.
 
gdouaire said:
pontiacgp said:
what kind of pads are you using and did you break them in properly? What residual valves are in the proportional valve?

Pads are ceramic. Could a dozen stops ruin them and create the symptoms I experience?

No documentation on what's in the prop valve in terms of residual valve.

Pads should always come with break in instructions and I am not a fan of ceramic pads. I have EBC brake pads and if I don't break them in properly they end up in the garbage cause they are useless and I have to have the rotors turned. At $80 for a set of pads I take care breaking them in.

http://www.essexparts.com/learning-cent ... ost/Bed-in

More concerning however, is that if you don't intentionally establish a good transfer layer on your rotors, you may do it accidentally when you really heat the brakes up for the first time through aggressive driving. Then you run the risk of getting uneven pad deposits on your rotors, which means the dreaded thud-thud-thud vibrations when you step on the brakes. In the worst case scenario, your rotors may not even be recoverable, which means you'll need to buy new ones. That's always a fun scene at the dealership, when they tell you need new front and rear pads and rotors, and by the way, that will be $1,000 please.

Finally, during a proper bed-in cycle, the rotors are introduced to heat stress through a progressive temperature increase. The rotors are brought up to temperature over time, rather than being instantly shocked at an extremely high temperature. Ramping up the heat in the rotors prepares them for heavy use as the metal gradually expands. Wild temperature swings from very cold to very hot are the greatest cause of cracked rotors, which is something we're obviously trying to avoid.

I noticed you mentioned you got an adjustable brake bias cause you want to upgrade to disk brakes. The residual valve for drum brakes is 10 lbs and for disk is 3 lbs so if the proportional valve is set up for the drum you'll need to change the residual vlave
 
pontiacgp said:
Pads should always come with break in instructions and I am not a fan of ceramic pads. I have EBC brake pads and if I don't break them in properly they end up in the garbage cause they are useless and I have to have the rotors turned. At $80 for a set of pads I take care breaking them in.

Indeed, I have the instructions that came with the pads, but since I can't get the front brakes to work properly, I'm not able to bed them in right now.

pontiacgp said:
I noticed you mentioned you got an adjustable brake bias cause you want to upgrade to disk brakes. The residual valve for drum brakes is 10 lbs and for disk is 3 lbs so if the proportional valve is set up for the drum you'll need to change the residual vlave

Right, good point. The MBM PVC valve is not identified as disc/drum or disc/disc anywhere in the documentation. Sent a question their way for clarification.
 
and here is why I don't like the ceramic pads...

Why don't you recommend Ceramic Brake Pads?


Let's start by saying that ceramic brake pads have a place in the automotive industry. They were designed to be a low-dust, noise-free brake pad. They came into popularity after the discontinued use of asbestos-based brake pads. At that time, semi-metallic pads exhibited problems with higher noise and dust levels.
Ceramic Brake Pads were NEVER designed to be a performance brake pad! Some companies have done a terrific job marketing their higher-priced, ceramic pads to the consumer as a performance pad. Ceramic brake pads typically have lower friction coefficients, and act as an insulator - raising rotor temperatures in cast-iron disc systems. When you have a vehicle that has persistent braking problems- the last thing you want to do is install components that have a LOWER friction coefficient and that RAISE effective operating temperatures! See our section on how this can cause ' Warped Rotors "
 
This prop valve has no residual valves built in; means that if the master is located above the calipers (which is my case), will not need any extra residual valve as expected for a disc/disc setup.

I will try to use a "bleeding tool" to stop the internal piston from cutting off the front brakes and see what comes out of it.
 
this is a great system to bleed brakes

speed bleeder
31ANZNYFJVL.jpg


716Rg7%2BeWkL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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