NO DRUM IN THE REAR

[Irishspring46]

I replaced my rear brake lines, and my rear drums on my 85ss. My master cylinder was really low on fluid after that so I filled it. I gravity bled my rear brakes and it took about 10 to 15 minutes on each side for fluid to start coming out. I went to go drive it and I’ve got a spongy brake pedal and my rear drum brakes don’t work. And another question. Should the self adjuster be hard to turn?

 

[86LK]

I replaced my rear brake lines, and my rear drums on my 85ss. My master cylinder was really low on fluid after that so I filled it. I gravity bled my rear brakes and it took about 10 to 15 minutes on each side for fluid to start coming out. I went to go drive it and I’ve got a spongy brake pedal and my rear drum brakes don’t work. And another question. Should the self adjuster be hard to turn?

nope, pull it apart, clean the threads and grease that sucker so it rotates smoothly

you were parked on a level surface, correct? whether yes or no, try parking with an uphill angle so that air bubbles will flow one direction back to the master cylinder.

 

[Irishspring46]

nope, pull it apart, clean the threads and grease that sucker so it rotates smoothly

you were parked on a level surface, correct? whether yes or no, try parking with an uphill angle so that air bubbles will flow one direction back to the master cylinder.

So ur saying grease the threads on the self adjuster?. And do I crack the bleeder loose and then put it on an incline?

 

[scoti]

I replaced my rear brake lines, and my rear drums on my 85ss. My master cylinder was really low on fluid after that so I filled it. I gravity bled my rear brakes and it took about 10 to 15 minutes on each side for fluid to start coming out. I went to go drive it and I’ve got a spongy brake pedal and my rear drum brakes don’t work. And another question. Should the self adjuster be hard to turn?

Keep repeating the bleed process if air was introduced. I'd allow @ least 2x master cylinder refills to ensure air is purged.

 

[scoti]

So ur saying grease the threads on the self adjuster?. And do I crack the bleeder loose and then put it on an incline?

Put Anti-Seize on the adjuster threads vs 'grease'.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

It's the little valve inside the combination valve that needs to be held in place when bleeding. There's a tool for it.

 

[Irishspring46]

Keep repeating the bleed process if air was introduced. I'd allow @ least 2x master cylinder refills to ensure air is purged.

My self adjuster is pretty hard to spin I have to use a screwdriver

 

[Irishspring46]

Keep repeating the bleed process if air was introduced. I'd allow @ least 2x master cylinder refills to ensure air is purged.

Is gravity bleeding fine?

 

[scoti]

My self adjuster is pretty hard to spin I have to use a screwdriver

That's normal under the tension when installed because of the spring pressure on the shoes. It should easily thread in/out prior to assembly.

I've come across a bunch of them in my experience/efforts that had crusty old grease which prevented them from being easy to turn. When I rebuild rear drum set-ups, I clean the adjuster threads w/brake cleaner, dry them off well, & put Anti-Seize on the threads to make sure they adjust easily.

I prefer pushing fluid out vs just the gravity method.

 

[scoti]

It's the little valve inside the combination valve that needs to be held in place when bleeding. There's a tool for it.

If he's getting fluid @ the rears via gravity, I'd think that pin is not stuck.