++100 on the bleeder screw. Never thought of it before... Wish I had. Too many rust buckets from the 70's and 80's in the Chicago Area. Too many memories...
NO DRUM IN THE REAR
- Thread starter Irishspring46
- Start date
Cross section of hose. Kind of what Uncle Tony was talking about.
Notice how bad the inside is, but not noticed on the outside.
The comparison pics look a little bit photoshop, but you get the idea.
Other pics attached...
Notice how bad the inside is, but not noticed on the outside.
The comparison pics look a little bit photoshop, but you get the idea.
Other pics attached...
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Agreed, My experience has been if that pin gets seated against one channel vs the other (F or R), you don't get anything past it until it's reset.
I don't think/feel 10min of gravity bleeding @ each bleeder/corner is adequate either.
You can't Gravity blead drum brakes you what ever cam out was just fluid not air air could have went back in actially..Let me suggest what to do put fluid in the mstr clyl. Then get under car all bleeder closed open one sides bleeder ( about a turn and a half ) have some one inside car step on brake peddle hold your index finger lightly over the open end of the cylinder tell them to let off the brake and keep this up till you get a couple good squirts of fluid then close the bleeder befor the peddle is let off.top cylinder off with fluid the do the opposite side. Gravity is for disc calipers only.
You don't need to put it on an incline! Unless your close to a roller coaster. Level of the master cyl is higher than the bleeders that why they can gravity bleed. Everyone here is correct that take the adjuster aparts clean it and lube it ( I used white grease) and initially tighten them so that the drum fits but the shoes are not rubbing. then put your wheel on and rotate it until you hear the shoes lightly rubbing as you adjust. You canfine tune on the brake cable adjusting nut.
As usual, the information and tips are plentiful as well as tried-and-true methods that people have employed on many occasions. However, we won't all agree on everything and that seems to be the case here.
My car sits with a rake, so if I don't jack up the front then the brake lines that run horizontally are actually aiming up in the rear. Opening the bleeder would accomplish nothing by itself, as an air bubble wouldn't travel downwards to the front of the car before rising to the master, and gravity isn't enough to guarantee it goes out the back. I'm not a fan of gravity bleeding either, be it drums or discs because it never seems to work completely, at least not in my garage. I also don't trust it on a fundamental level since I've seen air and liquid do incredibly odd things that seem to defy logic as well as physics. Adding pressure to the system seems more likely to avoid having trapped air bubbles and has always worked well for me. When at all possible, I prefer the 2 person method, 1 person and a stick, 1 person with a Mason jar half full of fluid, or at the very least: a 1 man brake bleeder/vacuum pump kit.
In recent years I've taken to using the spring loaded "speed bleeders" that you don't have to open and close repeatedly to bleed. I put a length of hose on them, run it to a collection device, and pump the pedal (just like the jar method but without the reversion) I've purchased them from Russell as well as in the HELP! section at parts stores with mixed results- I've occasionally witnessed air going back inside before the valve closed.
My car sits with a rake, so if I don't jack up the front then the brake lines that run horizontally are actually aiming up in the rear. Opening the bleeder would accomplish nothing by itself, as an air bubble wouldn't travel downwards to the front of the car before rising to the master, and gravity isn't enough to guarantee it goes out the back. I'm not a fan of gravity bleeding either, be it drums or discs because it never seems to work completely, at least not in my garage. I also don't trust it on a fundamental level since I've seen air and liquid do incredibly odd things that seem to defy logic as well as physics. Adding pressure to the system seems more likely to avoid having trapped air bubbles and has always worked well for me. When at all possible, I prefer the 2 person method, 1 person and a stick, 1 person with a Mason jar half full of fluid, or at the very least: a 1 man brake bleeder/vacuum pump kit.
In recent years I've taken to using the spring loaded "speed bleeders" that you don't have to open and close repeatedly to bleed. I put a length of hose on them, run it to a collection device, and pump the pedal (just like the jar method but without the reversion) I've purchased them from Russell as well as in the HELP! section at parts stores with mixed results- I've occasionally witnessed air going back inside before the valve closed.
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