I have a couple questions for you, then some thoughts, and finally some input and possible suggestions - in other words, excuse the length of the post...
1) you mention snow... what part of the country are you in, and what do you have for garage/barn space to work on this?
2) what is your level of knowledge and experience working on cars thus far as far was work youve actually done. Will this be your first major undertaking?
3) you mention, and some seem to have missed/glossed over the fact, you want to get the car up and running again as quick and cheap as possible... is it your only transportation/daily driver?
My initial thoughts:
1) if this is your first time doing major mechanical repairs, and you need the car drivable asap, can I suggest you find another buick 3.8 or 4.1 to swap in for now. Benefits: a) its cheap, you can find a running carb to pan motor someone else is about to remove for their swap usually in the $150 to $350 range regardless of where in the country you are; b) you learn what you need to know and the basic practice of changing an engine, refreshing gaskets, setting timing, connecting up the flywheel/converter etc etc where you already have pictures of where and how it all goes back together from before you start; c) you mentioned snow, meaning you are in the rust belt. Fasteners and threads will have rusted up, things will need to be tweaked, and I can tell you from 15 years wrenching in new England vs 10 years down in Georgia, everything was harder and took way longer with unexpected things breaking up in rust country. This southern stuff is a breeze. A test run on a straight replacement let's you get those headaches out of the way and actually clean up your engine bay ahead of time, making the later swap cleaner and quicker. D) cost: right now you need to take what you can get and pay the best deal you see. It's MUCH cheaper if you gather the parts over a couple months looking and waiting for bargains, such as rock auto closeout sales, ebay, swap meets, forums, etc. E) weather. Again, not sure what you have for space to work in, but, as it gets cold wrenching with numb fingers holdng cold iron... well, I don't miss that part...
2) realistic budget and goals. You say you think you want a 350 chevy, which has its pros and cons, availability being biggest pro next to new parts cost. BUT. A) On the engine... Carbeurated? Fuel injected? If FI, tbi, tpi, older vs newer vortec, or lsx? There's benefits and costs to each. B) transmission, I assume you want overdrive? For cheap costs you may consider a th-2004r. If you did go chevrolet, they are plentiful from Monte Carlos and grand prixs, or some canadian cutlasses. Benefit to those if your car, being an 84, already has the second set of mounting holes on the frame rails under the doors to use the od trans factory crossmember, no need for a pricy aftermarket one unless you want it. That fancy dual exhaust and xmember can wait till later.
There is a ton of other advice relating to topics such as ac (for example, a buick v6, v8, or olds v8 can use your factory ac condenser. If you go chevy, the lines in/out of that condenser are now on the opposite side, meaning replacing condenser...) fuel tanks with baffles if you go fuel injected, the list goes on and on.
Also, final piece of advice many do not remember and consider, it sounds like you are after more power and performance. With a buick v6 from the factory, and a th200c transmission, I bet you have 2.14 or 2.41 rear gears. I'd be shocked if there was something steeper than that. Every engine has a power band where it is happiest for hp and torque. Tire size and transmission effect what rpm your engine runs at for a given speed. Here is a fun toy for you:http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
Play with it. Try to look at the numbers and dyno for someone running a similar engine/cam/fuel setup as you eventually want, see where it makes its power, and see if where and how you drive let's you tap and enjoy that power. Buick/olds/pontiac/chevy engines all have different rpm ranges where they are happy. You may find based on your driving habits and speeds, plus what you want on the car for tires and trans, one engine leaves you in that usable power section for a lot more of your time meaning it is more responsive, more fun to drive, and, gets better fuel economy.
1) you mention snow... what part of the country are you in, and what do you have for garage/barn space to work on this?
2) what is your level of knowledge and experience working on cars thus far as far was work youve actually done. Will this be your first major undertaking?
3) you mention, and some seem to have missed/glossed over the fact, you want to get the car up and running again as quick and cheap as possible... is it your only transportation/daily driver?
My initial thoughts:
1) if this is your first time doing major mechanical repairs, and you need the car drivable asap, can I suggest you find another buick 3.8 or 4.1 to swap in for now. Benefits: a) its cheap, you can find a running carb to pan motor someone else is about to remove for their swap usually in the $150 to $350 range regardless of where in the country you are; b) you learn what you need to know and the basic practice of changing an engine, refreshing gaskets, setting timing, connecting up the flywheel/converter etc etc where you already have pictures of where and how it all goes back together from before you start; c) you mentioned snow, meaning you are in the rust belt. Fasteners and threads will have rusted up, things will need to be tweaked, and I can tell you from 15 years wrenching in new England vs 10 years down in Georgia, everything was harder and took way longer with unexpected things breaking up in rust country. This southern stuff is a breeze. A test run on a straight replacement let's you get those headaches out of the way and actually clean up your engine bay ahead of time, making the later swap cleaner and quicker. D) cost: right now you need to take what you can get and pay the best deal you see. It's MUCH cheaper if you gather the parts over a couple months looking and waiting for bargains, such as rock auto closeout sales, ebay, swap meets, forums, etc. E) weather. Again, not sure what you have for space to work in, but, as it gets cold wrenching with numb fingers holdng cold iron... well, I don't miss that part...
2) realistic budget and goals. You say you think you want a 350 chevy, which has its pros and cons, availability being biggest pro next to new parts cost. BUT. A) On the engine... Carbeurated? Fuel injected? If FI, tbi, tpi, older vs newer vortec, or lsx? There's benefits and costs to each. B) transmission, I assume you want overdrive? For cheap costs you may consider a th-2004r. If you did go chevrolet, they are plentiful from Monte Carlos and grand prixs, or some canadian cutlasses. Benefit to those if your car, being an 84, already has the second set of mounting holes on the frame rails under the doors to use the od trans factory crossmember, no need for a pricy aftermarket one unless you want it. That fancy dual exhaust and xmember can wait till later.
There is a ton of other advice relating to topics such as ac (for example, a buick v6, v8, or olds v8 can use your factory ac condenser. If you go chevy, the lines in/out of that condenser are now on the opposite side, meaning replacing condenser...) fuel tanks with baffles if you go fuel injected, the list goes on and on.
Also, final piece of advice many do not remember and consider, it sounds like you are after more power and performance. With a buick v6 from the factory, and a th200c transmission, I bet you have 2.14 or 2.41 rear gears. I'd be shocked if there was something steeper than that. Every engine has a power band where it is happiest for hp and torque. Tire size and transmission effect what rpm your engine runs at for a given speed. Here is a fun toy for you:http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
Play with it. Try to look at the numbers and dyno for someone running a similar engine/cam/fuel setup as you eventually want, see where it makes its power, and see if where and how you drive let's you tap and enjoy that power. Buick/olds/pontiac/chevy engines all have different rpm ranges where they are happy. You may find based on your driving habits and speeds, plus what you want on the car for tires and trans, one engine leaves you in that usable power section for a lot more of your time meaning it is more responsive, more fun to drive, and, gets better fuel economy.
