Nuts and Bolts
- Thread starter tngbody
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I bought new hardware for the front and rear suspensions in both of my cars. Belmetric.com has everything you need for a reasonable price. They sell small amounts so you dont have to buy a whole box. You should use class 10.9 metric bolts for everything. I used matching flat washers and also prevailing torque or conical lock nuts. All class 10.9.
Dont use cheap nuts and bolts for suspensions. I wouldnt use nylock nuts either. Ive seen them come loose too many times.
I bought a used Hotchkis setup for the rear of my 81. Didnt come with any hardware. I had a hard time finding metric 10.9 hardware in my area. In the end I went to the local John Deere dealership. They had a lot of it in stock. Used all flange bolts and nuts. They look slick but buying them through Deere was a mistake. Big $$$. Then I found Belmetric. Never had to go anywhere else. Theyre in MA. I call in the morning and they put they ship them the same day.
Dont use cheap nuts and bolts for suspensions. I wouldnt use nylock nuts either. Ive seen them come loose too many times.
I bought a used Hotchkis setup for the rear of my 81. Didnt come with any hardware. I had a hard time finding metric 10.9 hardware in my area. In the end I went to the local John Deere dealership. They had a lot of it in stock. Used all flange bolts and nuts. They look slick but buying them through Deere was a mistake. Big $$$. Then I found Belmetric. Never had to go anywhere else. Theyre in MA. I call in the morning and they put they ship them the same day.
99% of my restoration bolts are GM.
There is one nut particular to the G-body that is HARD TO FIND but it's kind of highly visible. And that's the master cylinder to booster nuts. They're flanged nylocks without much fanfare, but it's GREEN nylon. Most of the nut and bolt houses, and even GM, sells the brown or black or some other color nylon. But NOT the factory green. And I've never seen one of those come loose.
They look a lot like this, only with green nylon. Check them at a car show next time. GM replacements are just crimp style flange nuts. They're perfectly fine too, but not factory-supplied.
There is one nut particular to the G-body that is HARD TO FIND but it's kind of highly visible. And that's the master cylinder to booster nuts. They're flanged nylocks without much fanfare, but it's GREEN nylon. Most of the nut and bolt houses, and even GM, sells the brown or black or some other color nylon. But NOT the factory green. And I've never seen one of those come loose.
They look a lot like this, only with green nylon. Check them at a car show next time. GM replacements are just crimp style flange nuts. They're perfectly fine too, but not factory-supplied.
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I live in TX (no rust cars) . When Ever I go, if there is a G Body I pull as many nuts/bolts as possible that just need a light cleaning. Got a bin full of them. (I like to use bolts with the correct head markings) I don't like the restorations with the box hardware store bolts I understand that sometimes that is all that is available.
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