80 442 full powertrain swap

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-dw-

Greasemonkey
Mar 15, 2021
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Okay note taken, could I move that fuseable link further up towards the alternator?

Closest to the positive power source as possible. Any wire thats not fuse linked can potentially short to ground and possible melting or fire. Yrs ago on my 84 I ran all my main positive wires, fuse links of course from a distribution block next to the battery.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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I run maxi fuses, and I've popped one due to a minor wiring mishap. It's easy to change a fuse and a pita to change a a fusible link imho.
 
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scoti

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Sep 5, 2019
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I run maxi fuses, and I've popped one due to a minor wiring mishap. It's easy to change a fuse and a pita to change a a fusible link imho.
This is why I opted for the fused-wire but was told by guys that build cars for a living it wasn't the right choice. In my head the inline fused-wire should work the same the same as a fusible link while being much friendlier to remedy if an 'oops' happened.
 
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ELCAM

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Jun 19, 2021
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Fuseable links have special insulation because they do get hot, harnessing the fuseable link with normal wires could cause damage to the other wiring.

Maxi fuses are slow blow fuses and are the factory design to rid them of fuseable links.
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Upstate NY
Fuseable links have special insulation because they do get hot, harnessing the fuseable link with normal wires could cause damage to the other wiring.

Maxi fuses are slow blow fuses and are the factory design to rid them of fuseable links.
I can't disagree. I do you use a suitable fuse though. I don't chuck an 80 amp in to make sure it doesn't blow haha.
 

ELCAM

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Jun 19, 2021
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14Ga = 15 Amps
12Ga = 20 Amps
10Ga = 30 amps
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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I would search what the limitation is for a 14ga wire & not exceed that based on the 10ga Fusible link size.
Exactly. If you’re running stock accessories, then you should need the amperage limit of the fusible link.

I’ve done 3 g-bodies with aftermarket EFI running the stock accessories. But I have no HVAC in any of them and no power seats either. All have had power windows. I run a 40 amp fuse that is tied into both 10 gauge factory wires. I mount the in-line fuse almost directly behind the intake for easy access.

All of my EFI connections and fuel pumps are powered separately directly from the battery.

I can’t say that what I’m doing is correct, but it has worked. I’ll also add that my body to frame, engine to frame, and block to battery grounds are not even remotely questionable. I ground the rear mounted fuel pumps directly to the battery with 10ga and I have #2 wire from the engine to the battery. All of the grounds are new wire - don’t trust any 35-40 year old ground wire.
 
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