Recent content by 64nailhead

This ^^^^^ is what I've heard and my machine shop claims. I take this to mean, for a hot street driver, 400hp or there abouts, any old 350 block will work and be more than reliable. For a strip car, they will will work fine also as long as you aren't taking a 250hp motor and putting a 300+...

Found it online - a roll of 1/4' bead ? Does this stay pliable and can it be removed? Or does it turn extremely strong? Asking, because we'll probably pull the widows back out when it gets the final paint.

I’m looking for a sealer brand/type that goes on this :

One of my winter upgrades went to crap. I bought a 7qt Summit pan made for drag racing. It has trap doors, anti climb deflector in the rear. All was going admirably until wasn’t. One of the knocks on this pan is that it can leak between the steel and aluminum block for the oil filter adapter. It...

Struggled to get everything flat and spent an extra 4 hours cleaning. What I thought would be done last Thursday, I finished on Monday at 11pm. Rktpwrd this makes me really appreciate your meticulousness and patience lol!!

At least it won’t be an EV only powertrain. If the prices stay inline with that add, then they probably will sell. My wife would drive it -AWD (that’s her only prerequisite for the 8000miles a year she drives 🤦‍♂️

The converter for the motorhome (very heavy) behind a big block would be really tight in a lightweight vehicle with an engine that has 100 ft’lbs, or so, less power at idle. Agree with this 110%.

How does it feel when put in drive? Does it take more than a normal amount of brake pedal pressure to hold it back? You have to be the judge of that. If you answer is yes, then the converter is the issue. Another way to tell this is if the converter never ‘floats’ when you lift the peddle at...

That tire will fit, but I can’t say if the 3.5” backspace is correct or not. Basing this from the 275’s I have on 15x10’s that fit easily, but I don’t have a stock rear width.

When it going to g-body of the month with 25+ photos detailing the details??

These ride in the factory spring pockets. Afco makes a similar setup. For the rears coilovers can ride in the factory shock mount location with a spring tower support without issue. Don’t overthink it.

The word ‘typically’ is the issue and it makes a fair amount of assumptions about your setup.

Looking back at your dyno graph it’s clear by the way the torque is nose diving while the HP is still climbing that something in your batch of parts is somewhat mismatched imo. But I’m also concerned about the recording, I’m not familiar with the HO and TQ curve intersecting at that low of an rpm.

Coilovers are an exact adjustment, whereas lowering springs give you what they got. You can attempt to heat them to get more drop from the springs, but that isn’t an exact science and can affect how the springs feel.

What’s the backspacing on the 15x15’s?