Recent content by ilduce

Was what I described with my EGR "vacuum hold" test correct? My theory is the seals or whatever in the EGR diaphgram (and my salvage yard unit) are shot, so the sucker loses the vacuum I plug it with after 10 minutes. If it's supposed to NOT lose its vacuum on on its own accord, maybe that's why...

A couple days ago I checked EGR valves on the car when idling and lifted up on the diaphragm. Sure enough the idle speed dropped. I even killed it one time. But, the light comes on after 10 minutes of highway action, the b*st*rd. Today I took the EGR off, squashed the diaphragm in and threw a...

Thanks for the info. I swapped the EGR solenoid with a much cleaner unit I found and still a light on the highway. These solenoid/sensor deals are impossible to find new, so I'll just live with the light. It could be a faulty code.

Cool. It's that black connector near the parking brake release. I got a bunch of 12s, a 53, and then some more 12s. According to the link on that CCC thing, the EGR sensor is receiving improper vacuum from the EGR. Will I need to replace the EGR valve and the sensor thing it's hooked up to?

Cool. Is it the black connector under the dash about four inches from the parking brake release? There's two rows of six slots, the top row has five pins in there and the bottom row has one pin (corresponding to the upper row without a pin). Am I golden, is this the fleece?

My owners manual doesn't say how to jump pins to find out the code. It only says to have the car serviced if the engine light comes on. I've got the owners manual for the 86 GP and Bonneville. Can you explain how to do it?

Thanks for the ideas. I don't have a code reader, otherwise I'd do the code after a highway operation. Maybe it's the EGR failing, my engine runs on the rich side, but then again the carb could use a rebuild, too. For an EGR function test, do I press in the diaphragm and see if it pops back out...

So I've got a check engine light on the highway after ten miles. I can idle it for half hour, floor it on the entrance ramp, whatever. Once I'm highway driving for awhile the light comes on. If I restart the car it won't be on until I hit the highway again. I don't notice any difference once the...

That sounds like a good idea. Also sounds like how I'd get the power seats out of a salvage yard car.

Unfortunately, the power driver seat doesn't work. There's power going to it, but any action on the controls just sounds like marbles shaken in a glass jar; I guess the gears are burned out. Is removal possible without the power driver seat working?

I took a look at how the front 40/60 bench seats mount and also the rear seats. Since these are power seats (just the driver side I guess) and I haven't messed with them before, what's the easiest way to get the bastards out? Do the seats have to be powered to adjust them in a particular...

Well, here's the update. Yet again you masters have helped me out. It was the ignition module. O'Reilly said to replace it after they tested it, and $30 later my car starts and goes. What I didn't know is the ignition module controls or contributes to a heck of a lot of stuff, especially for...

When you say this happened a couple times to you, do you mean in general or following a replacement of the coil, cap, and rotor?

I installed the old cap, rotor, and coil, and no spark. Here's my setup. And, I tested the juice at the pink wire. It had juice, so something is fried. I think the black thing is the igntion control module. Are these known to blow out with new ignition parts? My book says the shiny can thing...

Which pink wire? 1986 HEI with coil 'n cap set-up. The electric stuff I recall removing were the two plastic connectors that go into the cap and mate with the connectors from the ignition coil wire leads, they were plugged back in. One is for tach and ground I believe, and the other is battery...