BUILD THREAD '78 Cutlass Supreme Lichen Edition

It's one of those tasks that seems worse than it is, kind of like the first time you pull an engine. Replacing the bushings and hinge pin can be tricky though, especially without a vice, but Vice Grips work to clamp the hinge to something so you can drill the hole to accept a new bushing. It's not complicated, just frustrating at times.

Adjustment may be repetitive and it helps if you only loosen the bolts just barely enough to let things move with slight persuasion. Put tape on the edges or faces of anything you don't want to accidentally scratch or chip- door and fender edges are prime places. You may need to buy new door strikers as well, as they tend to wear flat on top. When setting door gaps adjust the striker position first to get the rear of the door to match the car, then work your way forward. Take measurements of any gaps that are currently correct and you can match them later.

Do you have a picture or two of the damaged header panel?

My theory on the pin is that it didn't get completely rust-proofed/ painted and was corroding from day 1.
I'll get pix showing the slight nose out of joint later.

My plan of attack with the door hinge would be to replace it with the door closed. I have this fantasy in my head where I take the front driver fender off without losing the shims and replace the door hinge quickly.

I figure I'll sharpie witness marks and measure the current gaps like you said.

Variations on the theme have me supporting the weight of the door with a strap and cherry picker, with the door shut on the straps.
 
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The detent roller pin can be changed if you are willing to get creative. I agree with you realigning the door is a pain, something better not to do.

First cut the old pin out you have to cut it in three places. cut the roller off, inside the hinge frame cut it in two places the top must be able to slide down through the hole and the bottom of the pin must slide up through the hole.

I used a 99 chevy pick up detent roller and cut it one inch shorter where the pin necks down, drilled a hole in the bottom of the pin and tapped it 5/16 X18 and used a socket head screw.

Where to cut the old pin.
door hinge.jpg


Where to cut the new pin.
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detent roller (2).jpg
 
The detent roller pin can be changed if you are willing to get creative. I agree with you realigning the door is a pain, something better not to do.

First cut the old pin out you have to cut it in three places. cut the roller off, inside the hinge frame cut it in two places the top must be able to slide down through the hole and the bottom of the pin must slide up through the hole.

I used a 99 chevy pick up detent roller and cut it one inch shorter where the pin necks down, drilled a hole in the bottom of the pin and tapped it 5/16 X18 and used a socket head screw.

Where to cut the old pin.
View attachment 231856

Where to cut the new pin.
View attachment 231854

View attachment 231855
Definitely creative, I love it.
 
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Header panel collision damage is within my ability to fix. The great amount of time i've spent tinkering on the car and it's the first look I've had at this issue... Mostly got to straighten out the steel bracket.
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Anybody ever see a windshield permanently fogged like this? Looks like sun damage or humidity damage. Regardless, it appears to be on the inside, and it does not come off with 90% isopropyl or ammonia or with magic clean sponge. If it is the result of volatilized plasticizer from the vinyl interior, it has etched the glass or laminate and is not a deposit. It isn't really visible from the outside; it is very noticeable on the inside looking out. I don't think it is worth a new windshield, so I'll live with it.... just serving up the question for the experts.... remember this car sat under a tree in PA for more than a decade.
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Anybody ever see a windshield permanently fogged like this? Looks like sun damage or humidity damage. Regardless, it appears to be on the inside, and it does not come off with 90% isopropyl or ammonia or with magic clean sponge. If it is the result of volatilized plasticizer from the vinyl interior, it has etched the glass or laminate and is not a deposit. It isn't really visible from the outside; it is very noticeable on the inside looking out. I don't think it is worth a new windshield, so I'll live with it.... just serving up the question for the experts.... remember this car sat under a tree in PA for more than a decade.View attachment 232235
It might be a form of glazing. It's most likely the plastic middle is victim of this defect. Being where it's at there might be a windsheild in the future. Check with an inspection station to see if it falls within Pa's standards to make sure.
 
Anybody ever see a windshield permanently fogged like this? Looks like sun damage or humidity damage. Regardless, it appears to be on the inside, and it does not come off with 90% isopropyl or ammonia or with magic clean sponge. If it is the result of volatilized plasticizer from the vinyl interior, it has etched the glass or laminate and is not a deposit. It isn't really visible from the outside; it is very noticeable on the inside looking out. I don't think it is worth a new windshield, so I'll live with it.... just serving up the question for the experts.... remember this car sat under a tree in PA for more than a decade.View attachment 232235
Have you tried a fresh new razor blade?
 
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Windshield is a laminate and could be the inner layer. Most I've ever dealt with in restorations is the deposits from heavy smokers, sometimes a bit of fun getting that off.

If it's an etching, mask off a small trial area and hit with a good quality gloss clear spray. Clear lacquer would be best. It could be similar issue to fogged headlamps even though the cause of that is a different action.

Also find someone or company that focuses on glass repair or replacement, just keep the focus on corrective measures for the issue at hand. Otherwise they might just keep the focus on selling you a new piece of glass.

Typically it's not a problem that is a ticket-able issue if it's not in line of sight, but every State is different.
 
Windshield is a laminate and could be the inner layer. Most I've ever dealt with in restorations is the deposits from heavy smokers, sometimes a bit of fun getting that off.

If it's an etching, mask off a small trial area and hit with a good quality gloss clear spray. Clear lacquer would be best. It could be similar issue to fogged headlamps even though the cause of that is a different action.
I will try to put some clear on a spot. New windshields are less than $200.
 
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