BUILD THREAD '78 Cutlass Supreme Lichen Edition
- Thread starter doood
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I have to look at how hard it's going to be to route these parking brake cables... Other than that, it was pretty simple mocking up the inline tube brackets, calipers, and brake lines. I had to mock it up because I have to locate where to weld this tab that holds/secures/captures the hose. The instructions and YouTube video were actually for a BOP 10-bolt without c-clips. Luckily this swap to Seville brakes is so old that my paperback 'how to rebuild rears' book had a section on disc brake conversion that filled in the blanks.
I'm still debating actually installing these disc brakes because I installed a new disc/drum proportioning valve and master cylinder earlier in the year... Undoing that and redoing with disk/disk valve and 1.125" master cylinder just so I can have shiny discs in the rear seems kind of dumb.
I've had multiple opinions that these 3.42 gears are still good with 50,000 miles. The backlash is 0.011 (out of spec) and I can lift the carrier out by hand because one of the carrier races was spinning and machined a couple thousands off the cast iron factory shim, that's my theory anyhow looking at the score marks. So I'm going to put it back together with the nominal factory backlash and new shim pack when I get the truetrac posi and 30 spline axels after I take care of the rest of my financial duties (Xmas, anniversary).
I'm still debating actually installing these disc brakes because I installed a new disc/drum proportioning valve and master cylinder earlier in the year... Undoing that and redoing with disk/disk valve and 1.125" master cylinder just so I can have shiny discs in the rear seems kind of dumb.
I've had multiple opinions that these 3.42 gears are still good with 50,000 miles. The backlash is 0.011 (out of spec) and I can lift the carrier out by hand because one of the carrier races was spinning and machined a couple thousands off the cast iron factory shim, that's my theory anyhow looking at the score marks. So I'm going to put it back together with the nominal factory backlash and new shim pack when I get the truetrac posi and 30 spline axels after I take care of the rest of my financial duties (Xmas, anniversary).
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I have to take the rear windshield out of the other car. The 84 Monte carlo. Turns out a bad rattle I've had for years is the urethane holding in that windshield has failed along the bottom edge. I verified it is still well attached in the corners and along the top with a suction cup.
My current plan is to order some banjo strings on Amazon and use that as a saw to cut through the remaining urethane. Does anybody have an opinion on what is the best tool to separate rear windshield from body. Plan to use a banjo string.
My current plan is to order some banjo strings on Amazon and use that as a saw to cut through the remaining urethane. Does anybody have an opinion on what is the best tool to separate rear windshield from body. Plan to use a banjo string.
I've never used 'em, but Harbor Freight has a windshield removal tool, a windshield removal kit that's different, and a 15% off coupon.
I think OTC has the actual tool. Most out today are copies. At the dealership we had a specialist come in for windshields and rear windows and any other bonded glass. He did stuff in minutes that would have taken us hours. Door glass R&R is a basic tech item.
Your best (opinion of course), is have a glass shop or tech do it.
Also if you have any issues with the head liner, this would be the time to address it. Have the tech pull the rear window and prior to show up, have the headliner ready to come out.
This way easy to schedule and getting the headliner in and out with the windshield or window removed, makes repairs easier. Then get the repaired headliner back in, and then have tech finish job or putting glass back in.
Your best (opinion of course), is have a glass shop or tech do it.
Also if you have any issues with the head liner, this would be the time to address it. Have the tech pull the rear window and prior to show up, have the headliner ready to come out.
This way easy to schedule and getting the headliner in and out with the windshield or window removed, makes repairs easier. Then get the repaired headliner back in, and then have tech finish job or putting glass back in.
The best thing with a tech removing it is they have the hot knife that cuts with ease & limited pressure.
I do have a quote for $200 reseal the rear windshield. I'm also going to put a brace in behind the rear seat so I'm going to have the seat out the sail panels, the package tray out. I wasn't planning on taking the headliner out - we'll see. It's a hard ABS plastic replacement.
I think I want to source a SBO sooner rather than later. I found this on the marketplace not far from where I'm going to be for Thanksgiving. It's a two barrel 1971 350 cube with what appears to be a thm350 attached to it. Does this look like a good start if I find a four barrel manifold and use an EFI or CCC Rochester? If it needs a complete rebuild more learning for me. I am not in a rush to change the motor but I do want a plan to replace the 260 [eventually]
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Not sure if 71... But is pre-72, has points distributor with 7mm wires, and full perimeter bolts for the valve covers. Plus the older style power steering pump. I could not see head number.
If cross section of Intake is 14 inch, it's most likely a 455. Folks get this mixed up, as all Olds seem to look the same to most. SBO 260, 307, 350 and 403 is 12 inches across.
If you can get for decent price might be worth picking up. Trans appears to be a BOP 350.
I have 4 BBL iron OEM you could have but with cost of shipping... Might be better to just get an aluminum from Summit or Jegs, or other...
If cross section of Intake is 14 inch, it's most likely a 455. Folks get this mixed up, as all Olds seem to look the same to most. SBO 260, 307, 350 and 403 is 12 inches across.
If you can get for decent price might be worth picking up. Trans appears to be a BOP 350.
I have 4 BBL iron OEM you could have but with cost of shipping... Might be better to just get an aluminum from Summit or Jegs, or other...
Thanks for the input. I got a trailer lined up for the 29th. This gentleman says he's going to do an LS and he's going to get rid of this motor. I got to tell you I'm looking forward to 350 ft lb torque at 2400 rpm. Seller says the compression is good.
As much as I would love to have a 455, I really want the hood to close, so I'm hoping it is a 350 as advertised. I don't know any better but I figure a 455 wouldn't have a two barrel on it.
Actually you could get a 2bbl 455 in 71. I had one out of a Delta 88 years ago. Though starting in 1970 455's were originally painted metallic blue, small blocks were still gold till 72 or 73 I think.
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