Some 130 SI alternator swap info

pagrunt · Sunday at 7:02 PM

Not sure how helpful this will be but it should get things in the right direction to swap in a 130 SI alternator into our cars. I know others have done this over the years with no issue at all & know just what to do to do the swap but this would still be some good info for those who never done it. Just picked up a '87 Camaro Eletrical Diagnosis supplement for some reference with some of the electrical projects on Jr.'s & my cars. Looking over the diagrams it looks easier than some make it out to be. First, I don't see any resistor in Circuit 25, the brown wire for the warning light, From what I see, Camaros had a warning light even with the gauge so no resistor wire in the circuit. My view on this is with a factory gauge car with the resistor wire one shouldn't need a resistor in the circuit. Then there is the third wire, listed as Circuit 250 & color tan/white stripe out of cavity F, is tied into the electric fan on all engines except for VIN G & H 305's with the TH700R4. Regardless, it is tied into the FP FAN FUSE (20amp) in the fuse box. Also on the G & H 305's, the choke heater relay is part of this circuit too. If this fuse is needed a simple inline fuse running off a key hot source could be set up. This too could be used with electric fans if using a GM set up. The '87 Camaro uses a four wire relay (battery hot, to fan, temp sender, key hot) for its set up. I did scan the diagram for the 2.8 MPI V6 (S), TPI 305 (F) & 350 (8), carbed 305 (G & H) along with the FP FAN FUSE & copied the pin out diagram for the plug.

Sweet_Johnny · Sunday at 11:09 PM

I've got a 140 that I'd like to put into my Cutlass at some point, and have the rally gauges and a dummy light. Since I also bought an S792 adapter plug I'm assuming I'm good to go unless I swap gauges. If I install aftermarket gauges what's the best way to retain the indicator lamp? The alternator I chose has P, L, F, and S: Do I use any of the stock wiring or can I just tap into the "F" terminal of the plug? I believe it's for a lamp.

pagrunt · Monday at 6:12 AM

Sweet_Johnny said:
I've got a 140 that I'd like to put into my Cutlass at some point, and have the rally gauges and a dummy light. Since I also bought an S792 adapter plug I'm assuming I'm good to go unless I swap gauges. If I install aftermarket gauges what's the best way to retain the indicator lamp? The alternator I chose has P, L, F, and S: Do I use any of the stock wiring or can I just tap into the "F" terminal of the plug? I believe it's for a lamp.

If it'll be a full cluster replacement gauge set which alters the stock set up it might be best to install a 194 twist in socket & non LED bulb (to work as the "resistor" to excite the circuit like it does now ) in to the back of the warning light pod if it won't be removed. If not you'll need a resistor in that circuit which it looks like that adapter harness has (I looked it up on Rock Auto & it had two wires with the "L" wire having what looks like a resistor). All you just need is wires in the "S" & "L" cavities, no need for all cavities to have a wire as there won't be a use for those in any circuits. I'm just going with what I am picking up from the Camaro manual on this but if you use the page for the VIN G & H 305's as a guide it should be able to help with the swap. More I think about it & understand this, the "F" wire won't have any affect on our cars. I do believe some one who has done this will chime in if I am wrong.

Clone TIE Pilot · Monday at 12:41 PM

Delco 8078/GM 12102921 if you have a volt gauge or
Delco 8077/GM 12083462 if you have an "idiot" light.

Clone TIE Pilot · Monday at 2:28 PM

Also the L connection for the idiot light circuit should have between 35 to 350 ohms of resistance. For a Monte Carlo ss its usually a brown wire. One guy who did this swap in his MC claimed that when he tested his idiot light circuit it was under 35 ohms so he had to install a resistor. When I installed a CS130 in my Regal, its idiot light circuit had 60 ohms so it didn't need a resistor.

spongbob · Monday at 3:30 PM

Clone TIE Pilot said:
Also the L connection for the idiot light circuit should have between 35 to 350 ohms of resistance. For a Monte Carlo ss its usually a brown wire. One guy who did this swap in his MC claimed that when he tested his idiot light circuit it was under 35 ohms so he had to install a resistor. When I installed a CS130 in my Regal, its idiot light circuit had 60 ohms so it didn't need a resistor....................the one guy might of added a resistor that added up to higher then 35 say if he had 2 ohmes he might of added a 35 ohm in say a 20 watt size powere resister( wire type) in line I suppose

Sweet_Johnny · Monday at 6:44 PM

pagrunt said:
If it'll be a full cluster replacement gauge set which alters the stock set up it might be best to install a 194 twist in socket & non LED bulb (to work as the "resistor" to excite the circuit like it does now ) in to the back of the warning light pod if it won't be removed. If not you'll need a resistor in that circuit which it looks like that adapter harness has (I looked it up on Rock Auto & it had two wires with the "L" wire having what looks like a resistor). All you just need is wires in the "S" & "L" cavities, no need for all cavities to have a wire as there won't be a use for those in any circuits. I'm just going with what I am picking up from the Camaro manual on this but if you use the page for the VIN G & H 305's as a guide it should be able to help with the swap. More I think about it & understand this, the "F" wire won't have any affect on our cars. I do believe some one who has done this will chime in if I am wrong.

Thank you for the guidance. I don't mean to hijack but I'm considering using seven 2 1/16" gauges and utilizing temp, oil, volts, and seatbelt lights as well as a shift light. Here's a quick drawing and a sacrificial gauge cluster:

I've got new wiring for the oil/temp light sending units sorted already but wasn't sure if I should retain any of the factory gauge wiring or alternator wiring at all. I don't want to hack up the factory harness and it looks to me like the alternator already has a warning light output @ F for "Fail" indicator. Using the adapter (which does have the resistor) I can make a new harness altogether or just a pigtail that snaps into the stocker, and planned on running a new 4 gauge charge wire for the oversized 3/8" stud. I'm hoping the resistor in the adapter satisfies the system and the warning light lead can be ran to "F" which normally would not be used. Can the complete factory gauge wiring be removed as one piece?

The alternator is for a 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora and has the proper bolt spacing as well as threads in one hole, but it needs reclocked. It's slightly different than the 130 but essentially the same from what I've seen. I've read quite a bit about the upgrades but admit to being new to them.

pagrunt · Monday at 9:12 PM

Sweet_Johnny said:
Thank you for the guidance. I don't mean to hijack but I'm considering using seven 2 1/16" gauges and utilizing temp, oil, volts, and seatbelt lights as well as a shift light. Here's a quick drawing and a sacrificial gauge cluster:

View attachment 250895

I've got new wiring for the oil/temp light sending units sorted already but wasn't sure if I should retain any of the factory gauge wiring or alternator wiring at all. I don't want to hack up the factory harness and it looks to me like the alternator already has a warning light output @ F for "Fail" indicator. Using the adapter (which does have the resistor) I can make a new harness altogether or just a pigtail that snaps into the stocker, and planned on running a new 4 gauge charge wire for the oversized 3/8" stud. I'm hoping the resistor in the adapter satisfies the system and the warning light lead can be ran to "F" which normally would not be used. Can the complete factory gauge wiring be removed as one piece?

View attachment 250900

The alternator is for a 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora and has the proper bolt spacing as well as threads in one hole, but it needs reclocked. It's slightly different than the 130 but essentially the same from what I've seen. I've read quite a bit about the upgrades but admit to being new to them.

View attachment 250899

No worry on the hijacking, additional info from anyone is always great even with you going with an even newer alternator. For this one, the 140 you said you're planning to use, I'll have to dig out the '97 Chevy/Olds W body CSM to look into the wire diagram for the alternator. Going with the custom fab cluster, I'd still use a 194 bulb & I'll see if there's a resistor or diode used along with the pin out. Now going back to the "F" cavity for the 130, it's used with the electric fan circuit & the "L" cavity is for the warning light with the Camaro, I'll guess it'll be the same with anything else using the 130.

Clone TIE Pilot said:
Also the L connection for the idiot light circuit should have between 35 to 350 ohms of resistance. For a Monte Carlo ss its usually a brown wire. One guy who did this swap in his MC claimed that when he tested his idiot light circuit it was under 35 ohms so he had to install a resistor. When I installed a CS130 in my Regal, its idiot light circuit had 60 ohms so it didn't need a resistor.

Maybe bad wire? If the car was an '87 or '88 could of it been a bad generator diode which would of been onthe dash side of the C100 & only used with warrning light dashes. Our cars have .5 (20 AWG) wire running the whole circuit. The '87 Camaro has a .8 (18 AWG) wire from the alternator to the C100 & .5 (20 AWG) from the C100 to the dash connector for the cluster. Not fully knowing how these alternators are designed to function, maybe there's something with the "F" cavity wire serving another purpose with the charging system than just being listed as part of the Camaro's electric fan circuit for an example.

pagrunt · Monday at 10:45 PM

Sweet_Johnny said:
The alternator is for a 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora and has the proper bolt spacing as well as threads in one hole, but it needs reclocked. It's slightly different than the 130 but essentially the same from what I've seen. I've read quite a bit about the upgrades but admit to being new to them.

I checked into my '97 W body CSM & saw it was a different alternator set up than the Aurora. But the Aurora does use the same pigtail connector as the 130 so it should be the same wiring as what you need. Still double check for a wire diagram for a '97 Aurora to ensure.

Clone TIE Pilot · Monday at 11:58 PM

pagrunt said:
No worry on the hijacking, additional info from anyone is always great even with you going with an even newer alternator. For this one, the 140 you said you're planning to use, I'll have to dig out the '97 Chevy/Olds W body CSM to look into the wire diagram for the alternator. Going with the custom fab cluster, I'd still use a 194 bulb & I'll see if there's a resistor or diode used along with the pin out. Now going back to the "F" cavity for the 130, it's used with the electric fan circuit & the "L" cavity is for the warning light with the Camaro, I'll guess it'll be the same with anything else using the 130.

Maybe bad wire? If the car was an '87 or '88 could of it been a bad generator diode which would of been onthe dash side of the C100 & only used with warrning light dashes. Our cars have .5 (20 AWG) wire running the whole circuit. The '87 Camaro has a .8 (18 AWG) wire from the alternator to the C100 & .5 (20 AWG) from the C100 to the dash connector for the cluster. Not fully knowing how these alternators are designed to function, maybe there's something with the "F" cavity wire serving another purpose with the charging system than just being listed as part of the Camaro's electric fan circuit for an example.

My Regal is an 87. The test for the idiot light circuit is to measure the resistance to ground from the L connector with the alternator unplugged from the light circuit. The CS130 requires at least 35 ohms from the idiot light circuit and sometimes the stock warning light bulb doesn't have enough resistance.

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