l have a 78 Malibu no crank, battery starter fuseable link all good,replaced ign switch by passed nss.even tryed putting in push button starter that I ran to fuse box still nothing here is the bigger question I have 12 v at the solenoid wire when key is on postion but when I try to crank it it...
My 1980 Monte Carlo will not crank sometimes, I traced all the starter wires and ignition wires and replaced them.,and sometimes when I try to start car it clicks and will start but sometimes i have to jump the starter and it cranks, ground wire is grounded to the engine block and the battery...
...50 or so miles ago.
Scenario:
Very hot day in Florida I get off work and go to start the car after sitting in the parking lot all day. 1st crank - it sounds rough and is a little weak. Not normal, but not necessarily "bad", and doesn't start. Not surprising as it's been all day and usually...
...that I mixed up the fan 1 and fan 2 triggers to the relays. I pulled off the connectors and switched the pins. When I try to start it I get a crank, no start. I switched the trigger wires back with the same result.
I’m not getting spark as per a spark tester. I verified that I get power to...
...with a 3.8 v6 that suddenly will not start anymore. When I turn my key I have accessory power but when I try to start it nothing happens no crank no starter tick nothing. I dropped the steering column and replaced the ignition switch and nothing. I seen a YouTube video of someone jumping the...
...it sounded like a salt grinder. So decided rather than take this entire thing apart just buy a refurbished one. So after installation i went to crank car, holley turns on, fuel pump primes but when i complete the key turn NOTHING. no crank at all. wont turn over. tried all day to find the...
Having an issue with my Cutlass where it takes an excessive amount of cranks to start when cold. The vehicle is a 1982 Cutlass Supreme 4.4L (267 SBC). When the car is cold (I just mean not having ran for a day or a week, not freezing cold temps), it's really hard to start. It always does start...
I had also mentioned running a temp wire and test light/bulb inside the car so that purple wire can be tested every time it's being cranked. Mostly because if it only happens intermittently, it's hard to do the test light at the starter while cranking if you don't have a second person with you...
The 330 crank has a manual trans bushing, it protrudes slightly. I wondering if it is interfering with the converter pilot. Pretty sure it is fully seated, can't fit a finger between the converter and the case on the pump side. There is a gap between the converter and flex plate. Any thoughts?
That's pretty awesome. Considering I even ran into an issue with 330 crank with an automatic torque converter, not a bad idea. It is set up for a manual transmission, has a bushing but the 330 crank has a smaller ID than other SB iron cranks.
...is not getting to the starter. To confirm. Run a test light to the small lug on the starter and see if it lights up when the key is in the crank position.
If this diagnosis proves out. Concentrate your efforts back from that wire. It should be purple and goes up to the bulkhead connection on...
I'm doing it because when I listed the 71 parts I got a bunch of people asking if I had a manual crank. Now I do. I'm going to list the crank block rods and pistons together. If they want I'll throw in a cam I've got a few I'll be selling.
That relay is for retarding the ignition timing about 5 degrees when cranking the engine. The 3 pin plug goes to the distributor with the 12 ga cut off one being the pink 12V+ wire that is also cut off on the C100 end.
The blue wire is grounded by the relay when the ignition switch is cranking...
Wow after all that?
With little to no compression it couldn't have sounded very normal when cranking?
Any improvement with some oil squirted in the holes?
That's really unfortunate. :(
Before I would put a nickel into it I would get a look at the crank. At 300 degrees anything goes. The oil turns into water at that temp. There is an excellent chance that you need well more than a set of flat heads.
Are you running stock pulley sizes that were used with the water pump that is on the car? Wanting to make sure that you don’t have a mismatching crank and water pump pulley.
...so you might want to do that until you're completely up and running again, then put the fusible links in for permanent repair.
You try to crank and the starter won't crank at all, no sound, no click or attempt to crank?
I think you noted that the starter is known good right? You jumped the...
...or simular to the slightest carb load up ...can't recomend but they have been dune that way...read article said someone drilled and filled there crank weights and claimed to use titanium studs threaded(pressed) into crank weights to decrease weight on the heavy side negating the external balance
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