Fusible link

[383_StealthRam]

Before I read your reply I just cut the fusible links out and hard wired it and everything works as it should. I just bumped the starter and it works but I didn’t know if I should try to start it without those fusible links installed. I didn’t want to ruined anything. I’m thinking I just got some bunk fusible links. If I got some inline fuse holders what gauge wire and what amp fuse should I get? I appreciate your help.

Great news! The fusible links can easily be tested by trying to pull apart the insulation, if the wire inside is broken you'll see it stretches out when you do....or just an ohm test at either end to see if it's open circuited.

Read the earlier posts again about using Mega Fuses, and/or fused Junction block options near the battery or at the battery and take both of those 12 ga RED wires that were using the fusible links out of the engine harness, and try to bring them up from the starter motor solenoid to the top side of the engine, or fenderwell. If needed get yourself some quality 12ga (preferably red) wire and extend them both to the junction block, or directly to the battery. At the junction block, or battery post put some new fusible inks (like was originally down by the starter). If you put in mega fuses, I would probably go with about 50A, maybe 60A for each of those two RED wires.

You DEFINITELY do not want those two circuits left connected to the battery/starter post without any fusible link, or fuse protection. So even if you leave them down by the starter solenoid post, make sure you put back fusible links again. If not a short in either of those big red wires could cause a fire.

Given they're 12ga, you should be able to use something like this (7ft roll) and make your own fusible links, just get some good quality crimp and heat shrink sealing ring and butt splice connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Pico-8126PT-Gauge-Fusible-Package/dp/B0002JN0MO?tag=gbody-20

You can buy also them pre-made (with ring terminal and butt splice) as well from lots of online vendors, or local auto parts, Dorman, etc...it's really up to you.

I wouldn't use any cheap inline ATO style fuse holders in place of fusible links, especially if you leave them down by the starter solenoid where there is heat and usually oil/fluid leaks.

Good luck, sounds like you just need to make the permanent repair, whichever route you decide to go.

Here's a little more service manual information for you as well.

 

[roger1]

You almost certainly have an intermittent short on one of the main 12ga wires coming from the starter. Either on the engine side of the firewall or near the fuse panel on the inside. First thing I would do is trace every inch of the two wires that connect to those fusible links. This could be very difficult to find. Shorts can be found with a signal generator like PowerProbe sells but it would have to be in the shorted state for it to be useful. Otherwise, it's going to take physical inspection of the unfused circuits of those 2 wires that come from the starter. LIke I said, could be under the hood or under the dash.

 

[roger1]

Also since an intermittent short is likely, DO NOT bypass the burned out fusible links. If you need those wires hooked up to help find the short, use 40 amp fuses in place of those fusible links. Otherwise you may cause a fire or at least burn up a bunch of wires in your harness.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

So I just went to autozone and got a couple of fusible links. I took my time and did a good job with the butt connectors and heat shrink. I couldn’t get it to start though. Everything is working like it was before. As soon as I try to start the voltage drops from 12.6v to 7v. It’s a brand new battery. Before I got a new battery the car did sit for a few months. It is an older starter but the new starter I had in there I think was the culprit for blowing the fusible links. Any ideas?

 

[roger1]

A bad starter or solenoid will NOT be cause of burning out the fusible links. Since a short is likely you should use 40A fuses instead of replacement fusible links until you find the problem. Otherwise you could be having to replace those fusible links multiple times.

 

[383_StealthRam]

So I just went to autozone and got a couple of fusible links. I took my time and did a good job with the butt connectors and heat shrink. I couldn’t get it to start though. Everything is working like it was before.

So at this point, with new fuse links, you have power at the fuse panel fuses, Horn blows, headlights working like I outlined in my earlier post? I agree with roger1 using some fuses in place of the fuse links temporarily is easier than replacing the fusible links multiple times, so you might want to do that until you're completely up and running again, then put the fusible links in for permanent repair.

You try to crank and the starter won't crank at all, no sound, no click or attempt to crank?

I think you noted that the starter is known good right? You jumped the solenoid out at the starter (on car) and it cranked when you did that? Or, does it behave the same as when you try with the IGN key?

As soon as I try to start the voltage drops from 12.6v to 7v. It’s a brand new battery. Before I got a new battery the car did sit for a few months.

Where are you measuring the voltage dropping from 12.6 to 7v? Directly at the battery terminals, or somewhere else?

It is an older starter but the new starter I had in there I think was the culprit for blowing the fusible links. Any ideas?

You're absolutely sure the starter is in working condition?

I went back and re-read your earlier posts and you said you confirmed when it wouldn't crank, the test light did light up down at the starter solenoid which means that purple wire from IGN switch is working.

Unless you're sure you have gotten the starter that's currently installed to work on the bench, or on the car by jumping out solenoid then you really need to consider that (spare/extra) starter is just bad. That could certainly pull the voltage down on the battery when you try to crank. Does the battery recover when you stop trying to crank back to 12.2 - 12.6 volts again? You said battery is new so it should recover pretty quickly.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

So the horn has never worked. I have power at the fuse panel and the lights work. It tries to start but the starter sounds like it’s dragging. The voltage drops after less than a second and it sounds like the battery is dead but as soon as I let off the key the voltage climbs back up from 12.2v to eventually 12.6v. I measured it at the battery while my buddy turned the key.

 

[383_StealthRam]

So the horn has never worked. I have power at the fuse panel and the lights work. It tries to start but the starter sounds like it’s dragging. The voltage drops after less than a second and it sounds like the battery is dead but as soon as I let off the key the voltage climbs back up from 12.2v to eventually 12.6v. I measured it at the battery while my buddy turned the key.

Hmmm well that's all very interesting...

When is the last time the engine actually cranked, started and ran? Did you say it started, or at least cranked when you put a booster pack on it, or charger/jumper cables?

Taking a step back from the starter, battery fusible links etc, have you tried turning the engine by hand? Like with a breaker bar, and a socket on the front of the crankshaft balancer bolt?

If you can't turn the engine by hand with bar & socket, I would take out the spark plugs and try it again.

It's a longshot that you have some mechanical issue with the engine, I think we've all been assuming it had been running fine 3 months ago, and all this happened after you changed the battery.


POST BATTERY REPLACEMENT RECAP:

You had some fuse links blow, you replaced the existing (presumed bad) starter with a spare/used one, you now have working fuse links in place and fuse panel is powered up yet still have cranking problems.

Have you tested the starter "off" the engine? You could literally test the starter (at least free loaded) with a battery, jumper cables and a jumper wire or screwdriver on the ground off the engine.

Like some others have also said, even if fusible links are blown...you can still jump the starter solenoid (to just crank the engine) and if it doesn't work there's only a few things it could be.

1 Starter, 2 Battery, 3 Positive or Negative battery cables, and the connections

You're saying volts drops when trying to crank, either it can't turn the engine cause it's seized or hydro-locked (straining to try) or the starter is no good.

Please make sure you can manually turn the engine by hand...if it's ok, then I would strongly suggest a new starter motor at this point.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

Sure.

Slot A - empty
Slot B - 30A breaker for Headlight power at relays. I had to modify this fuse slot a little to get this breaker to fit in.
Slot C - 10A fuse for firing the dual radiator fan relays. I'm using 3 relays for a 2- speed setup and controlling with a Dakota Digital PAC-2750
Slot D - 20A fuse for powering the PCM for the LT1 engine.
Slot E - 30A fuse for the high speed blower power at the relay. Car has factory AC.
Slot F - 30A fuse for the Alternator voltage sense wire.

MIDI/AMI fuses:
Slot 1 - 30A fuse for Subwoofer amp installed under the passenger seat.
Slot 2 - 40A fuse. Fuse panel feed to the firewall plug. This feed was originally from the starter with a fusible link. Upgraded this wire from 12ga to 10ga.
Slot 3 - 40A fuse. Fuse panel feed to the firewall plug that routes to ignition switch. Also originally on a fusible link at the starter. Upgraded to 10ga from 12ga.
Slot 4 - 30A fuse. Dual radiator fan power at the relays. 12ga wire.

All wire terminals are the uninsulated type and crimped, soldered and covered with heavy wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

Hey I had a question for you. How did you unpin the wire at the bulkhead? My connections look like this. Is that normal? If not how do I fix it? I guess that’s more than one question lol

 

[roger1]

I didn't unpin them. I cut them off near the firewall bulkhead connector and connected my new 10ga wires to the short lengths of the 12ga.