When car heats up both hoses are Hot. I will check temp difference today if I can. Timing was verified on this a while back. And it does run occasionally. When it runs it runs amazing. We did have to add a cam sensor harness extension and that may just be the issue.
Twin turbo ls overheating issue
- Thread starter johnnunez29
- Start date
The cam sensor harness wouldn’t be any issue as long as the pins are tight and the wires are good.
Seeing the crank signal drop out is a more common problem. If your wiring is good, then either spacing between the sensor and cam gear or cam walk is the concern. Cam walk sucks to fix, but it’s best to find it via this issue rather than have it wreck your motor. It’s probably worth pulling the sensor to make sure nothing has contacted it, and that’s a good time to make sure the spacing is correct with a caliper.
The cam sensor harness wouldn’t be any issue as long as the pins are tight and the wires are good.
Seeing the crank signal drop out is a more common problem. Is your wiring is good, then either spacing between the sensor and cam gear or cam walk is the concern. Cam walk sucks to fix, but it’s best to find it via this issue rather than have it wreck your motor. It’s probably worth pulling the sensor to make sure nothing has contacted it, and that’s a good time to make sure the spacing is correct with a caliper.
Originally car wouldn’t crank at all. Sent computer to Holley and they sent it back said it was fine. I plugged it in and it worked. Cranked right up. Then the issue came back. Holley tech guy sent me a tune with out cam sensor only crank and it fired right up every time. I switched out cam sensor and boom fired right up. Reads everything. But now again it’s intermittently working not intermittently as is losing rpm while running but intermittently as in sometimes starts sometimes doesn’t. I’m almost positive it’s the ecu but again Holley says it’s not.
I’d doubt it’s the ECU. A circuit either works or doesn’t work. The only exception to that is if the ECU gets hot and the board and board component flexes. The cam signal circuit carries virtually no load, less than .2 of an amp - it is not the type of circuit that will usually have a heat generated issue.
Is the issue only when hot or only when cold or both?
Is the issue only when hot or only when cold or both?
typically only see it when its already hot and i turn it off. but at the same time when i see that the battery is usually low on the 3" handheld. like right now i put the key in and the battery says 19.99 volts so im assuming battery is dead. i did previousy have an issue when the car was under 14.5v or so on handheld. wouldnt crank, this thing has bugs up the wazoo. battery is grounded in trunk and again on chassis, up front aswell. computer power comes straight from the battery. and im no electrician and suck at even testing things. but may just need to get a stronger battery. maybe more cranking amps as the battery is in the trunk.
right now battery was reading 19. something volts so i tested battery, battery was perfect. right now the battery is lit yellow on handheld it is under 12.5 v. car will crank but not start. not reading cam sensor again. im almost positive if i change it, it will read it. i need to get a holley guy here locally as i am not sure how to test all these things. Guy who installed everything trouble shooted it and couldnt figure it out, he tested everything he could and nothing came up short. so im baffled. if i hadnt ran it before perfectly then id say maybe it is the cam sprocket but its ran beautifully, and for several days in a row.
I seen your post on FB. You mentioned that you’re having issues when the key is ‘half turned on’. That’s your sign - you have a wiring issue that has nothing to do with the Holley.
You need clean connections on everything.
You need clean connections on everything.
100%. Get more help from this forum and fb than them. Only one dude with an accent was able to help last time.
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