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This the the key...

Is the engine in the car already? If not, why play Russian Roulette? Just flip the engine over on the stand.

I'll measure it later tonight.

Are you talking about measuring the outside diameter of the tube? Where the numbers are in this pic?

Did you end up using the F-body headers for the swap? If so, how did you end up connecting the headers to the exhaust?

Wire-wheeled the rust and painted the rear end a few days ago. Not very hard to bolt-in, even with one person. Installed the Pypes exhaust system...amazed at how well it fit. I still need to weld up a couple of jumpers to connect the headers to the x-pipe.

600 mile round trip to pick up the Grand National rear end.

I had no idea the windows didn't roll down. That would drive me nuts.

The windows in the rear don't roll down at all or just part way?

I finished the DBW pedal assembly.

I messed around with HpTuners today and determined I have no clue what I'm doing.

Removed the factory LQ4 oil pressure sensor, broke the center out, tapped with 1/8 NPT, and epoxied a pipe nipple in for aftermarket gauge hookup.

The alternator was just the standard piece that I painted black. Degrease it with carb cleaner and hit it with some black engine enamel.

I have a 1990 C1500 pickup with a 350 I bought new. I parked it under a tree in south Texas before I went to college. It sat under the tree for 24 years. I got "curious" a few years ago and decided to see if it would run. I had to patch a few wires and replace the plug wires that the rats...

I stand corrected then. Those TBI engines are a dime a dozen around here.

I was going to say FPR if keeping the stock fuel system or new tank, sender, etc if converting to mechanical. The stock V6 exhaust will bolt up to SBC manifolds?

What did he decide he's converting to?

No doubt you can find cheap SBCs, I just want to see the car converted from V6 to V8 with just $100 difference.

I hope the OP keeps us updated. I want to see the $100 premium 4.3 to 350 conversion.