1 more gauge which one

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565bbchevy said:
mebe007 said:
Also 8an is big enough isn't it?

8 AN is plenty big, you could probably get away with a 6AN. I'm running a 12AN from my cell to my pump and a 10AN to my BG 4 port regulator and two separate 8 AN lines going to the carb but I have slighly higher fuel requirements.

im really stumped on the whole 5an or 8 an for my system. seems like $9 difference in hose and 90deg fittings are cheaper for 6an as well. im really stumped here. also should the system be setup like this: pump, filet, reg, carb or should the filter go after the reg?
 
mebe007 said:
84clonewars said:
I'd go trans temp, you dont want the trans getting too hot
Im running a manual trans and not an automatic

So does that mean manual trans doesn't get hot? :?
 
Not like an automatic transmission. Theres no slipping and NOT NEAR as much friction in a manual transmission. Theres no pump either to flow thin fluid. It's just a gear box filled with gear oil with the consistency of tree sap. The only thing that might overheat is the clutch. In that case it;s either operator error or not the right clutch for the application.
 
mebe007 said:
565bbchevy said:
mebe007 said:
Also 8an is big enough isn't it?

8 AN is plenty big, you could probably get away with a 6AN. I'm running a 12AN from my cell to my pump and a 10AN to my BG 4 port regulator and two separate 8 AN lines going to the carb but I have slighly higher fuel requirements.

im really stumped on the whole 5an or 8 an for my system. seems like $9 difference in hose and 90deg fittings are cheaper for 6an as well. im really stumped here. also should the system be setup like this: pump, filet, reg, carb or should the filter go after the reg?


It can go pump, filter, reg, carb or filter, pump, filter, reg, filter, carb. It really doesn't matter as long as you get adequate pressure to the carb. However, I would run a filter before the pump in between it and the gas tank if its not being filter before then. Gas tanks can have some nasty sh*t in them and you don't want your brand new pump to get all that crud in it. Also, I would run before the carb just to make sure all the fine particulates are not getting into your carb. Its kind of up to common sense, however, and making sure no parts can be damaged by dirty gas.
 
I may eventually get a 3 gauge pod and run an air fuel ratio gauge as well. My question is how do you guys secure the gauge in these things. I cant seem to find a way to get the gauge cup secured in the hole on the backside
 
mebe007 said:
I may eventually get a 3 gauge pod and run an air fuel ratio gauge as well. My question is how do you guys secure the gauge in these things. I cant seem to find a way to get the gauge cup secured in the hole on the backside

If they are Autometer, I just cut down the original bracket and if it has 2 separate brackets you might get away with just 1 to secure because of the angle of the pod. I know mine were a pretty snug fit before I put the bracket to hold it in place.
 
well my autometer vacuum gauge has the metal bar/bracket that goes over the back and all the new ones come with a plastic cup style bracket.
 
The plastic hold down you will have to trim to fit also, just do some mock ups to see where it hits then trim a little at a time and keep rechecking the fit. You might have to trim a portion of the circle base also.
 
When I ran the gauge pods I never used the brackets. They typically make the openings in the pods a little on the snug side. I would just press the gauges into place and never had a problem with them.
 
FE3X CLONE said:
When I ran the gauge pods I never used the brackets. They typically make the openings in the pods a little on the snug side. I would just press the gauges into place and never had a problem with them.

yeah they are very snug. i had thought about doing that lol but wanted to get everyone elses take on it lol
 
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