10SI - CS130D advice

[Bullett801]

Hello gentlemen, hope everyone is doing well. Got this project almost done finally! It actually runs and runs well after a few snags and issues that I had to deal with. Not unexpected, as I was sure I would be having some things that needed to be addressed upon Start up.

So, the final issue I’m having g is no charging voltage from the alternator.I originally had a serp belt set up from a blazer on this sbc, but after some design changes, and eliminating some things, I now have a Gilmer belt system, and only have the alternator driven by the belt.

My question is, I have eliminated the OE dash, which had the warning lights, and installed an updated instrument cluster and printed circuit board with gauges. I did alter the wiring for the tach, and installed new sensors, but for the generator I did nothing to the OE wiring. I have the alternator mounted good and securely, and have installed an adaptor from the OE 10SI plug to the new CS130D alternator. It has 4 pins on rhe alternator, labeled PLIS, and it has a 500 ohm resistor in the proper wire.

From what I have researched, this should be the exciter wire, that supplies voltage to get the alternator charging. I do believe the OE wiring still has the original resistor in it as well.

Problems and questions are these:

I have no switched voltage to the alternator when I turn the ignition key on.

The resistance readings are approx 900 ohms when I measure from the fuse box inside the car to the plug for the alternator vs. 500 ohms when I measure from the alt plug to the wire just before it goes into the fuse box in the engine bay.

So………

A. Should I remove the resistor in the adaptor and just use the OE one, or eliminate the OE resistor in the original wiring and only use the one in the adaptor?

B: What pin should it be on? “L”or “I”? I have no light anymore, but I do still have the OE wiring FOR the light.

C: Why do I not have voltage on this wire when I turn the ignition key on? Should I not have voltage on this wire? Should I run a separate wire for the switched voltage supply and put it on the pin the the resistor wire is on or that it is not on?

Any advice is helpful as always guys! Thanks in advance for any responses.

Bill

 

[Drkuhar]

If you did away with the factory dash the charge light on the dash is what fed the brown wire to the alternator. It grounded through the alternator making the charge light come on and when the alternator starts charging the terminal becomes a positive so no ground and the light goes out.

You are going to have to run a wire from the fuse box thats switched and have the resistor in it to the L wire on the alternator then the big wire can loop around to the back battery stud and from there a wire straight to the battery

 

[g0thiac]

Hello gentlemen, hope everyone is doing well. Got this project almost done finally! It actually runs and runs well after a few snags and issues that I had to deal with. Not unexpected, as I was sure I would be having some things that needed to be addressed upon Start up.

So, the final issue I’m having g is no charging voltage from the alternator.I originally had a serp belt set up from a blazer on this sbc, but after some design changes, and eliminating some things, I now have a Gilmer belt system, and only have the alternator driven by the belt.

My question is, I have eliminated the OE dash, which had the warning lights, and installed an updated instrument cluster and printed circuit board with gauges. I did alter the wiring for the tach, and installed new sensors, but for the generator I did nothing to the OE wiring. I have the alternator mounted good and securely, and have installed an adaptor from the OE 10SI plug to the new CS130D alternator. It has 4 pins on rhe alternator, labeled PLIS, and it has a 500 ohm resistor in the proper wire.

From what I have researched, this should be the exciter wire, that supplies voltage to get the alternator charging. I do believe the OE wiring still has the original resistor in it as well.

Problems and questions are these:

I have no switched voltage to the alternator when I turn the ignition key on.

The resistance readings are approx 900 ohms when I measure from the fuse box inside the car to the plug for the alternator vs. 500 ohms when I measure from the alt plug to the wire just before it goes into the fuse box in the engine bay.

So………

A. Should I remove the resistor in the adaptor and just use the OE one, or eliminate the OE resistor in the original wiring and only use the one in the adaptor?

B: What pin should it be on? “L”or “I”? I have no light anymore, but I do still have the OE wiring FOR the light.

C: Why do I not have voltage on this wire when I turn the ignition key on? Should I not have voltage on this wire? Should I run a separate wire for the switched voltage supply and put it on the pin the the resistor wire is on or that it is not on?

Any advice is helpful as always guys! Thanks in advance for any responses.

Bill

Honestly all you need is the lamp wire. But I would also use the sense as well.

I would use a small light and see if that gets it to start charging 👀👌👌👌

 

[78Delta88]

For clarity this diagram shows very simply what you had. The #1 or "I" Ignites or "Excites" the alternator to start charging. The internal regulator has a zenor diode and the initial voltage from the ignition, (the charge lamp is in series with this), passes enough voltage to magnetize the Stator. If that doesn't happen it will never produce any thing. Some of the single wire units will allow the Stator to energize once you get above a certain RPM typical 1200 to 1500. It's an induced current where lower RPM won't create it.

 

[78Delta88]

The diagram below is the CS130D wiring plan.

As previously mentioned the brown wire which has the charge indicator lamp in series is where you hook up to "L". I was thinking "Load" but in retrospect probably means "L" for "LAMP". As reading... Do not run without the lamp or specified resistor hooked up or you can/will damage the unit.

 

[Bullett801]

Alright, so what I’ve gathered from the responses, is run the exciter wire to the “L” pin with a resistor in it. A 500 ohm resistor is supplied in the adaptor I bought, so that should be adequate. Then run the “S” pin to the battery post on the back of the alternator. Right?

I’m going to run an entire new “L” wire through a 25A fuse and connect it to a switched voltage source that is controlled by the ignition key.

And I’m going to run an 8 gauge wire from the post on the back of the alt to the battery to handle the increased amps.

Does this sound correct to you guys?

Thanks again for all the replies fellas! I appreciate the knowledge!

 

[64nailhead]

IMO - use an idiot light - it’s an immediate notification that the alternator isn’t charging. The light is on when the key is on and the engine is off. Start the engine and it goes out and it’s charging. Too simple to not use one - again - my opinion.

 

[78Delta88]

Sounds good, 8 gauge is fine. If you don't use idiot light, I would suggest dash or under dash volt gauge.