12 sec car.. also streetable

[87MC_SS]

87 Monte Carlo SS (Stock)

Two engine choices.. Stock Rebuilt 400sbc bored .30 is what I have sitting in my garage
I want a 383Stroker... with a 100shot. Honestly either engine I want to run NOS. Can you guys dish out some ideas on builds for the 406 or the 383 and what you guys think will get me into the 12s and also still be a street car.
Heads..
Cam..
Intake..
Carb..
Headers.. I kno long tube
Stall Converter..
and would it help my time to upgrade to a posi unti. I hav stock 373 grears with a stock 200r4

 

[stomis]

Whats the budget? Are we talkin 12's on juice? Cause aiming for 12s on juice is like saying you want to try to hit the broad side of a barn with a shotgun, its just way to easy.

Hell if your talking 12s on a 100 shot than I would take a 350, 400 or 383, throw some cheap vortec heads with beehives and any 500 lift cam and spray it with a 100 shot. Depending on your cubes that car would be low 13s EASY on motor and probably in the range of 380-450 HP.

Hell I plan on breaking 12s, NA with a vortec 355 9.5:1, XE274 cam, 2500 stall, and a 3.73 rear...


Now that being said your gonna need a better rear and a beefed trans. The stock stuff might get you down the track a couple times but it will eventually let go.

If money is no object than I would take the 400, get some 195 AFR eliminators, hydro roller cam somewhere in the 540-560 range and see where that gets you. Thats what I plan on building next summer for the olds. It should be super streetable with a good RPM range and still have low end grunt. A set up like that you could expect to break 11s and probably go into the mid 11s. Bust 10s with a shot.

 

[larryo454]

Hi what are u talking about streetable in town or on the high way ?

 

[khan0165]

you don't need NOS to break 12s... you can do it all on motor.

... but it all depends on your budget. In either case, you need to build a stirdy motor...

Like mentioned before, a good set of heads, intake, carb, and a nice beefy cam will get you into low 12s, withOUT nitrous. If you want to run nitrous on a setup like that, you'll get into 11s too.

... tell us your budget and I'm sure some guys on here can give you good advice on a build.

 

[justwhisen]

save your money and go turbo. Nitrous is a fickle b*tch.

 

[larryo454]

Hi you need to make a 377 with that .030 over 400 block. The 377 is a buzzzzz box with good heads and a good solid roller cam, 550 + lift with 250+ dur @ .50 with a good 750+cfm holley type carb. and a th350 with 3500+ stall troque . O and this is not a combo as such to hit the hightway for 100kms or so. But i know it is going to get u in the high 11s with no bottle or other additaves .

 

[stomis]

Hi you need to make a 377 with that .030 over 400 block. The 377 is a buzzzzz box with good heads and a good solid roller cam, 550 + lift with 250+ dur @ .50 with a good 750+cfm holley type carb. and a th350 with 3500+ stall troque . O and this is not a combo as such to hit the hightway for 100kms or so. But i know it is going to get u in the high 11s with no bottle or other additaves .

Yeah 377s are little rev monsters. Infact the 377 is to the 383 and 406 as the 327 is to the 350. That being said for an NA motor I dont see loosing cubes being the right choice. Now if you were building a turbo car then absolutely. The 377 would be awesome. In the world of street driven cars broad power band and low torque is king.

Id take that 406, get some 185 or 195 AFRs and go from there. A 406 with the old design 185 AFRs and a whopping 480 lift cam will make about 480-490hp and 530-550 ft/lbs. And thats ridiculously streetable. Hell thats easily daily driveable...

The motor I want to build next year will be 9.5:1 406ci factory block, 195cc AFR Eliminator heads, Roller cam retrofit, 531/517 lift with 1.6 roller rockers. NA that motor will be well into the 11s and still be a perfectly tame daily driver. I'm not a NX person so the only sight beyond that would be to put thicker head gaskets in it to drop the compression to around 9:1, and run a huge single turbo on it. That would probably be a 10 flat car if not breaking 9s

 

[87MC_SS]

Im a college student so when I say street-able I mean not a daily driver but take it to school every so often or drive it to the track u kno? My budget it about 4000 give or take a couple hundred depending on grants. Tell me what you guys think about this.. If I rebuild my 305.. flat top pistons, vortec heads and intake, nice size cam and carb with a REAR mounted turbo???
I Know my outs and ends of the engine so I can do the build and I have access to alot of machines because Im a intern at a automotive machine shop.

On a side note... I dont want to get past 11.5 because at that mark is when you must put a roll cage in your car. I want to take this car to car shows and whatnot with a nice interior but every sat go run the track with some friends and maybe a few street races for cash possibly

I also heard stock 200r4 need to be built up but have a steep first gear as opposed to the 700r4 which was made for trucks and dont need to be built up

 

[stomis]

Im a college student so when I say street-able I mean not a daily driver but take it to school every so often or drive it to the track u kno? My budget it about 4000 give or take a couple hundred depending on grants. Tell me what you guys think about this.. If I rebuild my 305.. flat top pistons, vortec heads and intake, nice size cam and carb with a REAR mounted turbo???
I Know my outs and ends of the engine so I can do the build and I have access to alot of machines because Im a intern at a automotive machine shop.

On a side note... I dont want to get past 11.5 because at that mark is when you must put a roll cage in your car. I want to take this car to car shows and whatnot with a nice interior but every sat go run the track with some friends and maybe a few street races for cash possibly

I also heard stock 200r4 need to be built up but have a steep first gear as opposed to the 700r4 which was made for trucks and dont need to be built up

You can forget the 305 idea. Its not happening and especially for $4000. Just get some vortecs for the 400,.

400ci SBC : Said you already had it.
906 or 062 vortecs : $150-$200 watch CL
Machine work for heads, cut spring guides for lift, valve job : $200-$500
Cam : $150
Roller Rockers : $150-250
Edelbrock Airgap : $240
750 summit carb: $250
MSD Streetfire HEI : $125

That motor has been built a few time in magazines. Advertised numbers are something like 425hp and 475 ft/lbs.

As fa as the trans goes no the 700 wasnt "made for trucks" but it does appear that way with its terrible gear spread and not very high OD. Stick with the 200, pull the trans yourself and get a 500hp/500ftlbs master overhaul kit from CKperformance. Its like $350 bucks and any good transmission guy should rebuild that trans with your supplied parts for no more than $300.

So now your at around $2200ish. You should be able to find a GN or 442 8.5 in rear for $500-$800. And wahlah you have a mid 12s car that came in at around $3000 in parts.

 

[khan0165]

what stomis said sounds about right to me...
although, prices may vary from region to region, so quote the parts first and budget yourself accordingly. For example, a trans build here will cost around $900 in labour.

the 305 is definitly not a good idea. Many people have tried to get performance out of them (for whatever reason)... but very quickly, you hit a limit. It will also become VERY costly at that point. I'm not saying it's impossible, I'm just saying it's impractical.

the 400 you have is great starting point... as stomis said, a set of heads, cam, etc... and you'll be hitting 12s, no boost or juice needed.

I have a 700r4... both 200 and 700 trans need to be rebuilt before they can handle any power. The big difference between the two is the 700 has a much shorter 1st gear, so it will get you off the line quick, but the jump from 1-2 shift is huge and sucks. The short 1st also doesn't work well when running a big rear gear, you'll run out of revs way too quickly. The 700 is also 3" longer, so you'll need to get a new crossmember.
... my advice... keep the 200-4r that you already have. You'll love the even gear ratios, if built well it will handle good power, and you won't have fitment issues cuz it should work with your stock crossmember.